Lhotse | 2018 W Face

A USA expedition to Lhotse in 2018 via W Face, led by Hilaree Nelson. Summit reached on 29th September 2018. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field	Value
ID	10087
Imported	2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID	LHOT18301
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	2018
Season	3
Host Country	1
Route 1	W Face
Route 2	-
Route 3	-
Route 4	-
Nationality	USA
Leaders	Hilaree Nelson
Sponsor	Lhotse Ski Expedition 2018
Success 1	True
Success 2	False
Success 3	False
Success 4	False
Ascent 1	-
Ascent 2	-
Ascent 3	-
Ascent 4	-
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Countries	-
Approach	Lukla->Pangboche->Everest BC
Basecamp Date	2018-09-08
Summit Date	2018-09-29
Summit Time	1800
Summit Days	21
Total Days	26
Termination Date	2018-10-04
Termination Reason	1
Termination Notes	-
High Point (m)	8516
Traverse	False
Ski	True
Paraglide	False
Camps	3
Fixed Rope (m)	3000
Total Members	4
Summit Members	4
Member Deaths	0
Total Hired	7
Summit Hired	3
Hired Deaths	0
No Hired	False
O2 Used	True
O2 None	False
O2 Climb	True
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Taken	False
O2 Unknown	False
Other Summits	-
Campsites	BC(08/09,5300m),C1(15/09,5700m),C2(16/09,6300m),C3(25/09,7200m),Smt(29-30/09)
Route Notes	BC 08/09 5300m C1 15/09 5700m C2 16/09 6300m C3 25/09 7200m Smt 29/09 by Urken Sherpa at 6 pm Smt 30/09 by Nelson, Morrison, Kalisz, Simpson, Phu Tashi Sherpa, Ila Nuru Sherpa at 1:45 pm. Rope-fixing Sherpas (Urken, Palden, Phura Sherpa) went from C2 towards the summit in one day. They fixed from 7300m to a little bit below the summit. They ran out of rope and Palden and Phura turned around about 100m below the top. Urken Sherpa was keen to summit and continued on his own. He descended to C3, where he arrived at 8 pm. Palden and Phura were back at C3 together with the members. 30/09 summit team left C3 at 2 am. Nelson and Morrison headed out without supplemental O2 as Nelson thought it was a good idea to summit without oxygen. Both of them were carrying their skis and they were in ski-boots. When they reached 8200m (base of couloir) the snow changed. Crust was less firm and they broke in about knee-deep. The Sherpas had deposited some oxygen at the base of the couloir and Morrison and Nelson decided to put on oxygen. They spent about 45 minutes on the summit and Nelson and Morrison started their ski descent. They put their skis on on the summit and skied down to C2. Conditions in the couloir were varied. Breakable crust, ice. Couloir wide enough to ski. No rappel. Skiing the Lhotse Face was fine. They reached C2 at 6 pm. On 01/10 Morrison and Nelson continued to ski down to C1. They started out without skins, but as they were pulling heavy duffle bags they put on their skins to be able to drag the duffle bags down. They dropped their loads at 5900m and then they skinned and skied down to the top of the icefall at 5600m. Kalisz and Simpson also descended to C2 after the summit. Kalisz reached C2 at 8 pm, Simpson at 7:30 pm. Team left BC on 04/10 by helicopter. Fixed Rope: Two icefall doctors (Dawa and Nima) fixed the icefall in 2 ½ days. They only used one ladder. No rope fixed between C1 and C2. Sherpas fixed from bergschrund (6600m) all the way to the summit. Total ca. 3000m (with icefall). Oxygen: Taken and used from 8200m to top to C3 by Nelson From 8200m to top to C2 by Morrison From C3 to top to C2 by Kalisz and Simpson From C2 to top to C2 by Sherpas.
Accidents	-
Achievement	1st full ski descent of Lhotse
Agency	Xtreme Climbers
Commercial Route	False
Standard Route	True
Primary Route	False
Primary Member	False
Primary Reference	False
Primary ID	-
Checksum	2462569
Year	2018
Summit Success	True
O2 Summary	Used
Route (lowercase)	w face

Members

Field	Value
ID	74049
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LHOT18301
Member ID	01
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	2018
Season	3
First Name	Hilaree Janet
Last Name	O'Neill Nelson
Sex	F
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1972
Calculated Age	45
Citizenship	USA
Status	Leader
Residence	Tahoe City, California
Occupation	Alpinist & skier
Leader	True
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	True
Paraglide	False
Speed	False
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	8516
Summit Date 1	2018-09-30
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1345
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	True
O2 None	False
O2 Climb	True
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	8200m to smt to C3
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2439527
Summit Note 1	0
Summit Note 2	0
Summit Note 3	0
Death Route	0
Name (lowercase)	hilaree janet o'neill nelson
Year of Birth	1972
Year	2018
Age at Expedition	46
Role	Leader

Field	Value
ID	74050
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LHOT18301
Member ID	02
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	2018
Season	3
First Name	Nicholas John
Last Name	Kalisz
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1988
Calculated Age	30
Citizenship	USA
Status	Climber/Cameraman
Residence	Salt Lake City, Utah
Occupation	Film-maker
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	False
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	8516
Summit Date 1	2018-09-30
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1345
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	True
O2 None	False
O2 Climb	True
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	C3 to smt to C2
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2445018
Summit Note 1	0
Summit Note 2	0
Summit Note 3	0
Death Route	0
Name (lowercase)	nicholas john kalisz
Year of Birth	1988
Year	2018
Age at Expedition	30
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	74051
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LHOT18301
Member ID	03
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	2018
Season	3
First Name	James White
Last Name	Morrison
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1974
Calculated Age	43
Citizenship	USA
Status	Climber
Residence	Tahoe City, California
Occupation	Contractor
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	True
Paraglide	False
Speed	False
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	8516
Summit Date 1	2018-09-30
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1345
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	True
O2 None	False
O2 Climb	True
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	8200m to smt to C2
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2440250
Summit Note 1	0
Summit Note 2	0
Summit Note 3	0
Death Route	0
Name (lowercase)	james white morrison
Year of Birth	1974
Year	2018
Age at Expedition	44
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	74052
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LHOT18301
Member ID	04
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	2018
Season	3
First Name	Dutch Michael
Last Name	Simpson
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1987
Calculated Age	31
Citizenship	USA
Status	Climber/Cameraman
Residence	Jackson, Wyoming
Occupation	Film-maker
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	False
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	8516
Summit Date 1	2018-09-30
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1345
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	True
O2 None	False
O2 Climb	True
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	C3 to smt to C2
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2444816
Summit Note 1	0
Summit Note 2	0
Summit Note 3	0
Death Route	0
Name (lowercase)	dutch michael simpson
Year of Birth	1987
Year	2018
Age at Expedition	31
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	74053
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LHOT18301
Member ID	05
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	2018
Season	3
First Name	Ila Nuru
Last Name	Sherpa
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1998
Calculated Age	20
Citizenship	Nepal
Status	H-A Worker
Residence	Phortse, Khumbu
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	True
Sherpa	True
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	False
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	8516
Summit Date 1	2018-09-30
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1345
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	True
O2 None	False
O2 Climb	True
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	C2 to smt to C2
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2448763
Summit Note 1	0
Summit Note 2	0
Summit Note 3	0
Death Route	0
Name (lowercase)	ila nuru sherpa
Year of Birth	1998
Year	2018
Age at Expedition	20
Role	Hired

Field	Value
ID	74054
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LHOT18301
Member ID	06
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	2018
Season	3
First Name	Palden Namgye/Namgyal
Last Name	Sherpa
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1972
Calculated Age	45
Citizenship	Nepal
Status	H-A Worker
Residence	Phortse, Khumbu
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	True
Sherpa	True
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	False
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	8400
Summit Date 1	2018-09-29
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	True
O2 None	False
O2 Climb	True
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	C2 to high pt to C2
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	15
HCN	0
Checksum	2439454
Summit Note 1	0
Summit Note 2	0
Summit Note 3	0
Death Route	0
Name (lowercase)	palden namgye/namgyal sherpa
Year of Birth	1972
Year	2018
Age at Expedition	46
Role	Hired

Field	Value
ID	74055
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LHOT18301
Member ID	07
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	2018
Season	3
First Name	Phu Tashi
Last Name	Sherpa
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1977
Calculated Age	40
Citizenship	Nepal
Status	H-A Worker
Residence	Phortse, Khumbu
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	True
Sherpa	True
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	False
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	8516
Summit Date 1	2018-09-30
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1345
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	True
O2 None	False
O2 Climb	True
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	C2 to smt to C2
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2441297
Summit Note 1	0
Summit Note 2	0
Summit Note 3	0
Death Route	0
Name (lowercase)	phu tashi sherpa
Year of Birth	1977
Year	2018
Age at Expedition	41
Role	Hired

Field	Value
ID	74056
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LHOT18301
Member ID	08
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	2018
Season	3
First Name	Phura Chhetan (Fura Chhetan)
Last Name	Sherpa
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1990
Calculated Age	28
Citizenship	Nepal
Status	H-A Worker
Residence	Phortse, Khumbu
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	True
Sherpa	True
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	False
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	8400
Summit Date 1	2018-09-29
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	True
O2 None	False
O2 Climb	True
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	C2 to high pt to C2
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	15
HCN	0
Checksum	2445988
Summit Note 1	0
Summit Note 2	0
Summit Note 3	0
Death Route	0
Name (lowercase)	phura chhetan (fura chhetan) sherpa
Year of Birth	1990
Year	2018
Age at Expedition	28
Role	Hired

Field	Value
ID	74057
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LHOT18301
Member ID	09
Peak ID	LHOT
Year	2018
Season	3
First Name	Urken Lendu (Urgen Tenzing)
Last Name	Sherpa
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1993
Calculated Age	25
Citizenship	Nepal
Status	H-A Worker
Residence	Phortse, Khumbu
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	True
Sherpa	True
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	False
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	8516
Summit Date 1	2018-09-29
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1800
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	True
O2 None	False
O2 Climb	True
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	C2 to smt to C2
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	(1993-2021) Died Jan 2021 near Phortse from falling
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2446876
Summit Note 1	0
Summit Note 2	0
Summit Note 3	0
Death Route	0
Name (lowercase)	urken lendu (urgen tenzing) sherpa
Year of Birth	1993
Year	2018
Age at Expedition	25
Role	Hired

9 recorded members.

Name	Sex	Year of Birth	Citizenship	Status	Residence	Occupation
Hilaree Janet O'Neill Nelson	F	1972	USA	Leader	Tahoe City, California	Alpinist & skier	Details Other expeditions
Nicholas John Kalisz	M	1988	USA	Climber/Cameraman	Salt Lake City, Utah	Film-maker	Details Other expeditions
James White Morrison	M	1974	USA	Climber	Tahoe City, California	Contractor	Details Other expeditions
Dutch Michael Simpson	M	1987	USA	Climber/Cameraman	Jackson, Wyoming	Film-maker	Details Other expeditions
Ila Nuru Sherpa	M	1998	Nepal	H-A Worker	Phortse, Khumbu	-	Details Other expeditions
Palden Namgye/Namgyal Sherpa	M	1972	Nepal	H-A Worker	Phortse, Khumbu	-	Details Other expeditions
Phu Tashi Sherpa	M	1977	Nepal	H-A Worker	Phortse, Khumbu	-	Details Other expeditions
Phura Chhetan (Fura Chhetan) Sherpa	M	1990	Nepal	H-A Worker	Phortse, Khumbu	-	Details Other expeditions
Urken Lendu (Urgen Tenzing) Sherpa	M	1993	Nepal	H-A Worker	Phortse, Khumbu	-	Details Other expeditions

References

Field	Value
ID	14284
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	LHOT18301
Reference ID	01
Year	2018
Type	5
Journal	-
Author	-
Title	https://www.powder.com/stories/features/morrison-nelson-ski-lhoste/
Publisher	-
Publication Date	-
Language	-
Citation	-
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	14497
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	LHOT18301
Reference ID	02
Year	2018
Type	2
Journal	AAJ
Author	Nelson, Hilaree
Title	Threading the Needle
Publisher	-
Publication Date	2019
Language	-
Citation	93:24-31 (2019)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID	Journal	Author	Title	Publisher	Citation	Yak 94
LHOT18301	-	-	https://www.powder.com/stories/features/morrison-nelson-ski-lhoste/	-	-	-
LHOT18301	AAJ	Nelson, Hilaree	Threading the Needle	-	93:24-31 (2019)	-