Lhotse | 2018 W Face

A Russia expedition to Lhotse in 2018 via W Face, led by Oxana Morneva. Summit reached on 15th May 2018. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 9911
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LHOT18110
Peak ID LHOT
Year 2018
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Russia
Leaders Oxana Morneva
Sponsor Makalu Extreme Everest-Lhotse Expedition 2018
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lukla->Namche->Pangboche->Island Peak->Everest BC
Basecamp Date 2018-04-26
Summit Date 2018-05-15
Summit Time 0630
Summit Days 19
Total Days 28
Termination Date 2018-05-24
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8516
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 5
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Summited Everest (EVER-181-39); climbed Island Peak
Campsites BC(26/04,5350m),C1(30/04,5900m),C2(01/05,6400m),C3(07/05,7000m),C4(14/05,7700m),Smt(14-15/05)
Route Notes BC 26/04 5350m C1 30/04 5900m C2 01/05 6400m C3 07/05 7000m C4 14/05 7700m Smt 15/05 by Akkaev, Chatur Tamang, Pasang Lama Bhote, Kippa Sherpa at 6:30 am 16/05 by Morneva, Pasang Dorje, Nima Nuru at 6 am. 15/05 summit team started at 2 am. They took 4-1/2 hours. They spend about an hour on the summit. Akkaev and Kippa descended to C2. Chatur, Pasang Lama stayed at Lhotse C4 on 15/05 and waited for Morneva to come up to Lhotse C4. Morneva, Pasang Dorje and Nima Nuru left Lhotse C4 at 8 am. Morneva was already having trouble breathing on the way up. They spent about 5 minutes on the summit. Morneva's team descended to C4, where they picked up Chatur and Pasang Lama and they descended to C2, where they arrived at midnight. Morneva did not feel well. She had a sore throat and a fever. On 17/05 they rang a helicopter, but it could not land due to bad weather. She stayed at C2 for another night and broke a rib from coughing. On 18/05 Morneva and Akkaev were picked up by helicopter in the morning. She was taken to Swacon International Hospital, where she stayed until 21/05. She was diagnosed with frostbite in her throat. The whole team was affected by the flu at the beginning of the expedition. About 60 per cent of the Lhotse couloir was fixed by Mingma Gyalje. The team climbed up on a rope. Zakharov reached C1 on 30/04. He was intending to climb without a Sherpa, but realized that he was not able to and left the expedition. Kernitskiy broke his knee at the airport, thus did not reach base camp. Rustem Amirov - dead Russian on Lhotse Arrived at C4 on 15/05 and was looking for Chatur and Oxana Morneva. He said he did not have tent, sleeping bag or mattress. He asked to sleep in their tent. Pasang Dorje said took him into his tent. Pasang Dorje said that he could stay with them until SST Sherpas arrived and made a tent. There were five people in the tent. Rustem left the tent and SST Sherpas set up a tent where he moved into at around 7 pm. Rustem died on 16/05 at C3. Chatur saw him on 16/05 in the morning and Ruskin's face was already blue. Chatur told him to go down as he would die otherwise (as he did). Team left BC on 24/05. Oxygen: From C2 to top (Lhotse & Everest) to C2 by members and Sherpas Sherpas: Chatur Tamang (in database) Pasang Lama Bhote (on K2 in 2008 disaster) Kipa, Bakachol-9, Khotang, 08/10/1992 Pasang Dorje, Samde, Khumbu 27/04/1993 Nima Nuru Morneva - 7 April 2019 Volshchuk reached C2 and then had problems with his lungs and left the expedition. He was admitted to hospital in Ukraine and was kept there for six months. He recovered and is now going back to Lhotse again [in 2019].
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Makalu Extreme Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference True
Primary ID EVER18139
Checksum 2462702
Year 2018
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) w face

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Oxana Morneva F 1975 Russia Leader Sochi, Russia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Aznaur Akkaev M 1973 Russia Climber Terskol, Russia President of rescue team Details Other expeditions
Vasily Kernitskiy M 1956 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Director of Artel 'Vitim' (a geology company) Details Other expeditions
Dmitry Volschuk M 1964 Russia Climber Kiev, Ukraine Businessman Details Other expeditions
Dmitrii Zakharov M 1967 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Director of furniture factory Details Other expeditions
Pasang Lama Bhote M 1984 Nepal H-A Worker Hatiya-1, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Kipa Sherpa M 1992 Nepal H-A Worker Bakachol-9, Khotang - Details Other expeditions
Ngima Nuru Sherpa M 1988 Nepal H-A Worker Taksindu-6, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Dorje Sherpa M 1993 Nepal H-A Worker Samde, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Chatur Kumar Tamang M 1973 Nepal H-A Worker Chhando, Kanku-4 Makalu Extreme Expeditions Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.