Lhotse | 2016 W Face

A India expedition to Lhotse in 2016 via W Face, led by Ranveer Singh Jamwal. Summit reached on 19th May 2016. 20 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 9160
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LHOT16102
Peak ID LHOT
Year 2016
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality India
Leaders Ranveer Singh Jamwal
Sponsor Indian Army Everest Massif Expedition 2016
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Nepal
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2016-04-14
Summit Date 2016-05-19
Summit Time -
Summit Days 35
Total Days 43
Termination Date 2016-05-27
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8500m due to fatal accident of Sherpa fixing ropes
High Point (m) 8500
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 12
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 1
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Summited Everest (Attempt Lhotse (LHOT-161-01))
Campsites BC(14/04,5350m),C1(27/04,6100m),C2(28/04,6880m),C3(17/05,7100m),C4(18/05,7600m),xxx(19/05,8500m)
Route Notes High point of 8500m by Nooruddin, Mingmar Gurung, Sukhdev Singh, Chatter Singh, Sukhvir, Krishna Bahadur Kuwar, Tsewang Chosgail. Ang Furba, who was leading the Sherpa rope-fixing team, fell to his death at around 12 noon. He fell down past the climbing team. The team waited for about 45 minutes as Jamwal (the leader) was not in communication as he was just descending from Everest. They did not know what to do. However, they turned back as the rope was not fixed all the way to the summit. The Sherpas went down after Ang Phurba's fall. They all descended to C4, collected their things and then continued to C2, where they arrived at 6:30 pm. The route was in condition, but the rope fixing was bad. A lot of rope from the previous year was used. 3 Sherpas from Arun Treks helped fix the rope. Oxygen: Used from C3 to high point to C3 by members. Used from C4 to high point to C4 by members. Note from Russell Brice: What happened on Lhotse? Like for Everest there were various meetings at BC concerning Lhotse. It was quite apparent that the largest team for Lhotse was the Indian Army team with Arun Treks, so it was mutually agreed that they would deal with the logistics. Many of the other Lhotse climbers were climbing Everest first and then going to attempt Lhotse, so there was very little enthusiasm from many teams. The rope, oxygen and equipment was already at C2 so part of the logistics were already in place. But for some reason it appears that there was constantly a lack of co-ordination with load carrying. Often Sherpas would turn up to carry loads at 02:00 in the morning to be told that Arun had changed their plan and were not working on that day. From a distance some of us were wondering why the rope and material was being accumulated at the Lhotse C4 but was not going any higher, and there did not seem to be a plan to combine all participating teams together for the summit fixing. As it turned out just a very few rope fixers turned up, and it seems that although these young lads were very keen, fit and strong, and had attended the Khumbu Climbing Centre courses in the past, so were technically good climbers, they however lacked rope fixing experience. So instead of fixing new rope and changing the anchors and associated tat, they just tied new rope onto old rope and climbed on that until it ran out and then tied new rope to fill the gap. As there was a lack of coordinated support it is not surprising that they ran out of rope well below the summit, but being keen and enthusiastic one young Sherpa started to pull old rope out of the snow. Remembering that this rope is now three years old as nobody has been on Lhotse for the past two years and the last rope to be fixed there was in 2013. Apparently, suddenly the old rope suddenly broke free and Ang Furba lost his balance and fell off, and not being clipped to the rope he fell the full length of Lhotse to his death to arrive just 20m away from the crampon point at the bottom of the Lhotse Face. Of course this has a devastating effect on others who witness the falling man and also have the unenviable job of collecting his body, so it is not surprising that there is a sudden lack of interest in summiting Lhotse. Besides now we know that the job has not been done well and so a totally new effort is required. I am sorry, but this is a totally needless death of a young and promising Sherpa lad, and also resulted in no Lhotse summits this year.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Arun Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference True
Primary ID EVER16127
Checksum 2460354
Year 2016
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) w face

Members

20 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Krishna Bahadur Kuwar M 1983 India Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Ranveer Singh Jamwal M 1975 India Leader Samba, J&K, India Major in Jat Regiment, at present posted in Army Adventure Wing Details Other expeditions
Mohammad Nooruddin Ahmed M 1986 India Deputy Leader New Delhi, India Indian army Details Other expeditions
Mingmar Gurung M 1973 Nepal/India Climber Kerung, Solukhumbu Subedar in Gurkha regiment Details Other expeditions
Chatter Singh M 1978 India Climber Gianh, Shimla, India Havildar in Jammu & Kashmir Rifles Details Other expeditions
Hajari Lal M 1978 India Climber Garh Taknet, Rajasthan, India Havildar in Rajputana Rifles Details Other expeditions
Sukhvir M 1981 India Climber Alduka, Haryana, India - Details Other expeditions
Tsewang Chosgail M 1986 India Climber Nang, Jammu & Kashmir, India Naik in Ladakh Scouts Details Other expeditions
Phujung (Phuchung) Bhote M 1979 Nepal H-A Worker Hatiya-1, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Sherpa M 1984 Nepal H-A Worker Rakha Bangdel-5, Khotang - Details Other expeditions
Chhawang Karma Sherpa M 1969 Nepal H-A Worker Kerung-1, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ngima Noru Sherpa M 1981 Nepal H-A Worker Rakha Bangdel-5, Khotang - Details Other expeditions
Mingma Tshering Sherpa M 1988 Nepal H-A Worker Namche-5, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Nurbu Sherpa M 1976 Nepal H-A Worker Makalu-5, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Karma Serki (Karma Sarki) Sherpa M 1987 Nepal H-A Worker Phortse, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Sukhdev Singh M 1978 India Climber Sialba, Punjab, India Havildar in Punjab Regiment Details Other expeditions
Nima Dorje Sherpa M 1977 Nepal H-A Worker Waku-9, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Chhiri Sherpa M 1984 Nepal H-A Worker Paiya, Jubing-7, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ang Phurba Sherpa M 1990 Nepal H-A Worker Phurte, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Tashi Chhumbel Sherpa M 1991 Nepal H-A Worker Ghunsa, Lelep-9, Taplejung - Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LHOT16102 - - http://himalayanexperience.com/newsletters/everest-2016/everest-expedition-6#sthash.iwlVaCms.dpbs - - -