Lhotse | 2013 S Col-W Face
A New Zealand expedition to Lhotse in 2013 via S Col-W Face, led by Mike Roberts. Summit reached on 20th May 2013. 2 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 8014 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | LHOT13118 |
| Peak ID | LHOT |
| Year | 2013 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Col-W Face |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | New Zealand |
| Leaders | Mike Roberts |
| Sponsor | Adventure Consultants Lhotse Expedition 2013 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Pangboche->Island Peak |
| Basecamp Date | 2013-04-14 |
| Summit Date | 2013-05-20 |
| Summit Time | 1245 |
| Summit Days | 36 |
| Total Days | 38 |
| Termination Date | 2013-05-22 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8516 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 1 |
| Summit Members | 1 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 1 |
| Summit Hired | 1 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | True |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Summited Everest (EVER-131-09) |
| Campsites | BC(14/04,5350m),C1(24/04,6000m),C2(25/05,6400m),C3(16/05,7200m),C4(17/05,8000m),EVER.Smt(19/05),Smt(20/05) |
| Route Notes | Roberts and Davila went to the bergschrund on 1st acclimatization rotation. They wanted to touch C3 on 28 April, but the rope fixing was stopped due to a fight between Ueli Steck and Simone Moro and Sherpas. Once back at BC, Davila had foot pain due to bad boots; in addition he had to go back to Venezuela for political reasons. He never went back up. Roberts decided to stay and climb Everest and Lhotse. Roberts and Tendi Sherpa had arrived at the South Cl on 17th May at around 12:30 pm, intending to summit on the 18th May. However, the winds were too high and they decided to wait for another night. On 18 May, they left at 7:30 pm with a lot of other people. They passed about 60 people in the first half hour. It was a calm night and a straightforward climb. The summited at 1:30 am and spent about half an hour on the summit trying to get a flash picture on the summit, but it did not work out. They descended to the South Col, where they arrived at 4:30 am and stayed there until 20th May at 6:30 am. During his time at the South Col, Mike Roberts was trying to help mobilise Sherpas for the rescue of Mr. Lee from Taiwan, who was at C4 on Lhotse. Roberts and Tendi left the South Col at 6:30 am on 20 May to get to C4 of Lhotse where they arrived at about 7:45 am. They joined Kenton Cool, who had been trying to save the life of the Taiwanese climber; however, when Tendi and Roberts arrived, he had just died. Roberts went back down to the junction, where he had left a duffle bag and sorted out some gear and left the junction at 8:30 am to go for the summit. He stopped at Cool's camp for a drink and left 5 minutes ahead of Cool. Lhotse summit: 20 May at 12:45 pm by Roberts and Tendi Sherpa. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit. It was very cloudy and they could not see much. They descended to the junction, where they repacked their duffle bag again and descended to C2, where they arrived at 6 pm. The following day BC. Oxygen: C3 to Everest summit to South Col to Lhotse Summit to C3 by Roberts and Tendi Sherpa Sherpa: Tendi Sherpa, 13/10/68, Sanam, Gudel, Solu |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Himalayan Guides |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | True |
| Primary ID | EVER13109 |
| Checksum | 2459211 |
| Year | 2013 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | s col-w face |
Members
2 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Michael John (Mike) Roberts | M | 1961 | New Zealand | Leader | Wanaka, New Zealand | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Tendi Sherpa | M | 1968 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Sanam, Gudel-4, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
1 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| LHOT13118 | - | - | http://www.adventureconsultants.com/adventure/Lhotse_Dispatch2013/ | - | - | - |