Lhotse | 2013 S Col-W Face

A UK expedition to Lhotse in 2013 via S Col-W Face, led by Kenton Cool. Summit reached on 20th May 2013. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 8098
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LHOT13106
Peak ID LHOT
Year 2013
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Col-W Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Kenton Cool
Sponsor Dream Guides Lhotse Expedition 2013
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pangboche
Basecamp Date 2013-04-21
Summit Date 2013-05-20
Summit Time 1300
Summit Days 29
Total Days 31
Termination Date 2013-05-22
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8516
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 1
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Summited Nuptse on 16 May (NUPT-131-01) and Everest on 20 May (EVER-131-61)
Campsites BC(21/04,5350m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(11/05,7300m),C4.EVER(18/04,7900m),EVER.Smt(19/05),C4.LHOT(19/05,7800m),Smt(20/05)
Route Notes After a rest and a drink, Cool left C4 again at 9:30 am to move over to Lhotse C4 (7800m), where he arrived at 11:30 am (Dorje Gyalzen had descended to C2). At about 6 pm the same day, he had heard about the Taiwanese climber, Hsaio-Shih Lee, who was very unwell in his tent at Lhotse lower C4. Cool moved down to be with Lee and stayed with him the whole night. Lee passed away at about 7 am on 20 May. Cool went back to his camp, rested a bit and left for the summit at 9:15 am (Mike Roberts from Adventure Consultants had popped in for a quick drink and Cool left about 5 minutes after Roberts). Straightforward climb. Couloirs was very dry. He spent about 15 minutes on the summit; however, it was very cloudy and he did not see anything. He descended to C2, where he arrived at 5 pm. Cool was climbing on his own, as his Nigerian client Abiola, never made it to Nepal. He had other political engagements and cancelled the expedition. From Lindsay Griffin - 2 October 2013 The two [Kenton Cool and Dorje Gyalzen] then made an extremely speedy descent to the South Col (in a little over two hours), where a few hours sleep was grabbed before they left at 10:00 am for Lhotse's Camp 4 (~7800m), arriving two hours later. Rather than get any much-needed sleep that night, the two found themselves caring for a stricken Taiwanese mountaineer, Lee Hsiao-shih, who had collapsed after summiting Lhotse. Despite administering dexamethasone and oxygen throughout the night, Lee passed away the following morning. At that point Cool nearly gave up, but at 9:15 am on the 20th he and Dorje Gyalgen left camp in the company of New Zealand guide Mike Roberts and Tendi Sherpa, who had come up to rescue Lee, and reached Lhotse's summit at around 1:00 pm. Over the last few years Lhotse has been fixed all the way to the top, and this season was no different, work being carried out by Sherpas employed by operators Himex, Adventure Consultants and International Mountain Guides. Although some of the anchors may have been rather dodgy, the 10mm static rope was comfortingly sound. Cool and Dorje Gyalgen descended to Camp 2 in the Western Cwm the same day, and made it back to base camp on the 21st. Cool used a couple of oxygen bottles on Everest, and one on Lhotse.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Himalayan Guides
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference True
Primary ID EVER13161
Checksum 2459211
Year 2013
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s col-w face

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kenton Edward Cool M 1973 UK Leader Quenington, Gloucester, England Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Dorje Gyalzen Sherpa M 1982 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.