Lhotse | 2010 N Ridge-W Face up; W Face down

A Kazakhstan expedition to Lhotse in 2010 via N Ridge-W Face up; W Face down, led by Maxut Zhumayev. Summit reached on 16th May 2010. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 6795
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LHOT10112
Peak ID LHOT
Year 2010
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Ridge-W Face up; W Face down
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Kazakhstan
Leaders Maxut Zhumayev
Sponsor Kazakhstan Military Expedition to Lhotse
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2010-04-25
Summit Date 2010-05-16
Summit Time 1300
Summit Days 21
Total Days 25
Termination Date 2010-05-20
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8516
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 50
Total Members 7
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(25/04),C1(28/04,6100m),C2(29/04,6550m),C3(05/05,7300m),C4(15/05,7900m),Smt(16/05)
Route Notes C4 at bottom of couloir. The summit party consisted of just three members: Chekhlov, Pivtsov and Zhumayev. They left C4 at 3:00 am on 16 May and reached the summit at 1:00 pm, then returned to C4 at 5:30 pm to spend that night and the next day there. On the 18th they went down to C2 and on the 19th were back in BC. Non-summiting members: Gabbasov developed a bad headache (maybe incipient cerebral edema) in C1 on 28th April and returned to BC. On 4 May, he climbed up to C2 but did not sleep there; he had now lost all motivation to continue the climb. Ilyinski, who is 69 years old, never went above BC and had no plan to do so. He is a coach in the military's mountaineering group. Khonin was in the Himalaya for the first time and had stomach trouble on 24 April before the team reached BC. He climbed up to C4 on 6 May carrying a load but immediately descended to C2 and was back in BC on the 8th. He remained in BC for the duration of the climb; he had no strength left. When Sofrygin returned to BC on 8 May from C4, the area behind his nose and eyebrows was painful. He also remained in BC. Most of the team left BC on 20 May, but Ilinski and Zhumayev stayed at BC while Asian Trekking Sherpas with their Eco Everest climbers brought down to C1 the body of the Kazakhstani climber, Sergei Samoylov, who had fallen to his death while on Lhotse in the spring of 2009. From C1, a helicopter brought the two men and Samoylov's body from C1 to Gorak Shep on the 27th. Then porters hired at BC came down to bury the body in a spot halfway to Gorak Shep. Ilyinski flew in the helicopter to Kathmandu that day while Zhumayev trekked out to Lukla and got back to Kathmandu on the 30th.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2458063
Year 2010
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n ridge-w face up; w face down

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Vladislav Chekhlov M 1981 Kazakhstan Climber Karaganda, Kazakhstan Sportsman Details Other expeditions
Ildar Gabbasov M 1977 Kazakhstan Climber Karaganda, Kazakhstan Sportsman Details Other expeditions
Ervand Tikhonovich Ilyinski M 1940 Kazakhstan Advisor Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Coach Details Other expeditions
Dmitri Khonin M 1987 Kazakhstan Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Sportsman Details Other expeditions
Vassily T. Pivtsov M 1975 Kazakhstan Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Sportsman Details Other expeditions
Alexander Sofrygin M 1984 Kazakhstan Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Sportsman Details Other expeditions
Maxut S. Zhumayev M 1977 Kazakhstan Leader Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Sportsman Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.