Lhotse | 2010 W Face

A Russia expedition to Lhotse in 2010 via W Face, led by Alexei Bolotov. Summit reached on 16th May 2010. 14 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 6785
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LHOT10102
Peak ID LHOT
Year 2010
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Russia
Leaders Alexei Bolotov
Sponsor Lhotse Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries New Zealand
Approach Pangboche
Basecamp Date 2010-04-10
Summit Date 2010-05-16
Summit Time 1815
Summit Days 36
Total Days 39
Termination Date 2010-05-19
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8516
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 300
Total Members 14
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(10/04,5300m),C1(15/04,6000m),C2(16/04,6400m),C3(22/04,7100m),C4(15/05,7800m),Smt(16/05)
Route Notes Manuylov, Lutokhin, Kirievski and Totmyanin started their summit push from C4. Manuylov started his push at 6 am (the others had started a bit earlier). The weather and snow conditions were good. The route was partly fixed. Manuylov reached the summit at 6:15 pm and descended to C4 the same day where he arrived very late. Manuylov stayed with the Kazakh team at C4. The following day, he reached C2 and on 18th he reached base camp. Manuylov used oxygen from 7400m to the summit back down to C4. Lutokhin, Kirievski and Totmyanin (none of them used oxygn) had turned back during the summit push at different altitudes due to bad health. They all descended to C2 on that day. On 6th May, the team tried their first summit push and reached about 8300m. They turned back as it was getting too late in the day and they spent the night at C4. When they got back to C4, Duganov started feeling bad in the evening and on 7th May in the morning Belous, Bolotov, Duganov, Kirievski and Totmyanin started to go down. Duganov walked for a few meters and collapsed after having clipped into the fixed rope and died. His teammates tried to resuscitate him, but there was no sign of life. His body was taken down to C2, where a helicopter picked it up on 20th May 2010. Duganov died of high altitude cerebral or pulmonary edema on 7th May at 10 am near C4. Frolov and Pavlenko reached C4 on 15th May. Frolov did not join the summit push on 16th May, as he did not feel confident about the climb. Pavlenko did not go due to a bad cough. Ladygin reached C3 on 10th May and decided to abandon the climb as he did not feel confident and it was his first 8000m peak. Loutzenko reached 7200m, just above C3 on 5th May; he abandoned the expedition due to a bad cough. Rozhkov Eduard reached C3 on 25th April; he abandoned the expedition due to bad cough and flu. Rozhkov Ilya and Ryzhenko reached C3 on 22nd April; they abandoned the expedition due to flu and bad cough. Lutokhin reached 7900m on 15th May; he was on the summit push with Manuylov but turned back just outside C4 due to a bad cough. Alexandr Frolov used oxygen from 7500m to his high point and back to 7500m. Apart from Frolov and Manuylov, nobody else used oxygen on the mountain.
Accidents Duganov at C4 of HAPE or HACE
Achievement -
Agency Cho Oyu Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2458063
Year 2010
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) w face

Members

14 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Vladimir Belous M 1969 Russia Climber Irkursk, Russia Construction company manager Details Other expeditions
Alexei Bolotov M 1963 Russia Leader Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Metallurgical engineer Details Other expeditions
Sergei Duganov M 1966 Russia Climber St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia Construction company manager Details Other expeditions
Alexandre Pavlovich Frolov M 1967 New Zealand Climber Hope Island, Gold Coast, QLD, Australia Self-employed Details Other expeditions
Gennady Kirievsky M 1961 Russia Deputy Leader Magnitogorsk, Russia Headmaster of adult education school Details Other expeditions
Alexandr Ladygin M 1968 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Loutsenko M 1958 Russia Climber Cheliyabinsk, Russia Builder Details Other expeditions
Alexandr Lutokhin M 1962 Russia Climber Chernogolovka, Moscow, Russia Electronics businessman Details Other expeditions
Andrei Manuylov M 1965 Russia Climber Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Building materials producer Details Other expeditions
Dmitri Pavlenko M 1968 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Eduard Rozhkov M 1961 Russia Climber Veliky Novgorod, Russia Construction company manager Details Other expeditions
Ilya Rozhkov M 1962 Russia Climber Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Pharmacist Details Other expeditions
Arkadiy Ryzhenko M 1972 Russia Climber Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Pharmacist Details Other expeditions
Nikolai Totmyanin M 1958 Russia Climber St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia Engineer Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.