Lhotse | 2008 S Face

A Spain expedition to Lhotse in 2008 via S Face, led by Jordi Tosas. Summit reached on 19th November 2008. 1 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 6259
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LHOT08302
Peak ID LHOT
Year 2008
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Jordi Tosas
Sponsor Spaniard Solo on Nuptse & Lhotse
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2008-11-02
Summit Date 2008-11-19
Summit Time -
Summit Days 17
Total Days 22
Termination Date 2008-11-24
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7400m due to route too difficult
High Point (m) 7400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 1
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Nuptse (NUPT-083-01); climbed Chhukung Ri summited (3 Nov) and 6146m unnamed peak
Campsites BC(02/11,4753m),Biv(18/11,6500m),xxx(19/11,7400m)
Route Notes Spaniard solo on Nuptse & Lhotse, Jordi Tosas (only member) - 29 Oct 2008 Tosas was totally alone during his climbs as they were true solo attempts on the south faces of the two mountains with his base in a room in a lodge in Chhukung village. All his climbing before he attempted Lhotse was to acclimatize for it, and his very early climbs were also to go give him good views of the south faces of Nuptse and Lhotse. First, on 3 November he went north and climbed Chhukung Ri's South Ridge to its 5559m peak and back to Chhukung village. He rested for two days and then on the 6th moved south along the moraine on the west side of the Ama Dablam Glacier, then east to a very small lake at about 4800m, according to the Schneider Khumbu Himal map, and up on the moraine and rock slabs. There were several more small lakes as he continued east to the Chhukung Glacier at 5100m. He climbed across the Chhukung Glacier and up the west face of Pt 6146m; this peak is unnamed on the map, but Tosas calls it Amphu Gyabtsen, which he understands is the name used by local people for several peaks nearby. He moved along the north ridge of Pt 6146m to a col between it and Pt 6238m, and from the col he descended the east side the ridge to the Amphu Glacier. He returned to Chhukung village via a path going north and west from the glacier. After two more days of rest, on the 9th he returned to the same path that now took him back to the Amphu Glacier and the east side of Pt 6238m. This time he climbed the north face of Pt 6238m; the face included 800m of ice, which was more difficult terrain than he had been on three days before. He descended south along the ridge between Pt 6238m and Pt 6146m to the col and down its east face. Then back to Chhukung village. Finally on 12 November he set out to climb the South Face of Nuptse. He went north up the Lhotse Nuptse Glacier and bivouacked at 5000m on the glacier's west side below the 5857m summit of Chhukung. Next day he climbed the West Face of Chhukung's North Ridge and joined the Bonington route at 5850m on Nuptse's South Ridge. He made his bivouac that day at 6500m on the South Ridge. On the 14th, he decided to go for Nuptse East, a summit on Nuptse's East Ridge. He left his bivouac at 3:00 am, at 6850m moved eastward to Babanov's route to Nuptse East. He reached 7600m at 12:00 noon. But now he was on a very rocky steep face (65-80 degrees), which was too difficult for him to climb alone. He abandoned his bid to climb Nuptse and returned to Chhukung village at 11:00 pm. All his efforts up to now had been to acclimatize for Lhotse. He turned his attention to the main goal on 18 November, when he left the village at 5:00 am and moved up the Lhotse Glacier and reached 6500m via the Yugoslav route on the South Face at 5:00 pm. On the 19th he started his climb at 7:00 am on bare rock. He got to 7400m on the Yugoslav route up a rocky gully and found icefalls making his solo climb too difficult. He turned around here at 12:00 noon and descended to his bivouac at 4:00 pm. His attack on Lhotse was over. He returned to Chhukung village on the 20th, left it on the 24th to trek to Namche and Lukla. All his efforts up to now had been to acclimatize for Lhotse. He turned his attention to the main goal on 18 November, when he left the village at 5:00 a.m and moved up the Lhotse Glacier and reached 6,500 m. via the Yugoslav route on the south face at 5:00 p.m. On the 19th he started his climb at 7:00 a.m. on bare rock. He got to 7,400 m. on the Yugoslav route up a rocky gully and found icefalls making his solo climb too difficult. He turned around here at 12:00 noon and descended to his bivouac at 4:00 p.m. His attack on Lhotse was over. He returned to Chukkung village on the 20th, left it on the 24th to trek to Namche and Lukla.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency None
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2457518
Year 2008
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face

Members

1 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jordi Tosas Robert M 1968 Spain Leader Benasque, Huesca, Spain Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LHOT08302 AAJ Tosas, Jordi - - 83:338-340 (2009) -
LHOT08302 - - (see Reference notes) - - -