Lhotse | 2008 W Face

A Spain expedition to Lhotse in 2008 via W Face, led by Carlos Pauner. Summit reached on 21st May 2008. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 6041
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LHOT08110
Peak ID LHOT
Year 2008
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Carlos Pauner
Sponsor Spanish Dhaulagiri I 2008
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2008-05-15
Summit Date 2008-05-21
Summit Time -
Summit Days 6
Total Days 10
Termination Date 2008-05-25
Termination Reason 7
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8300m due to altitude sickness
High Point (m) 8300
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent True
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Dhaulagiri (DHA1-081-04)
Campsites BC(15/05,5400m),C2(18/05,6400m),C3(19/05,7100m),C4(20/05,7700m),xxx(21/05,8300m)
Route Notes C2 in West Cwm C3 on West Face C4 below the Turtle, rock below couloir High point at top of couloir. Team pitched C1 at 5800m on Dhaulagiri I's SE Col on 11 April. On the 12th they descended to BC, and now the weather was not very good. They returned to C1 on the 17th and on the 19th established C2 on the NE Ridge at 6800m, higher than the normal site. On the 20th they returned to BC to rest. They began their summit push on 28 April, when they went up from BC to C1, on the 29th to C2, and on the 30th C3 was made at 7400m on the ridge. Only Alejandre and Pauner went to C3 because Perez had not felt well at C2 and went down to BC instead. Alejandre and Pauner left C3 for the top at 3:00 am. Pauner reached the summit at 2:00 pm, while Alejandre, who was not so strong, got there only at 4:00 pm. Pauner was back in C3 at 5:00 pm, but Alejandre took 13 hours to return to cwm (at 3:00 am on 2 May). Alejandre had frostbite on one finger: this was her first 8000er and she had little experience with high altitude. The two summiters descended to BC together and arrived there at 8:00 pm. Alejandre's frostbite was the team's only serious health problem. She returned to Spain on 8 May, but Pauner and Perez helicoptered to Gorak Shep on the 13th to climb Lhotse. Pauner and Perez arrived at Lhotse BC on 15 May, moved quickly up the mountain since they were already acclimatized, skipped C1 and went to C2 on the 18th. On the 19th they headed for C3, but Perez got only as high as 6700m at 10:00 am and turned back because of a bad headache and cough; he returned to C2 to wait for Pauner. That left Pauner to continue the ascent with their two Sherpas, Pasang Tshering and Ang Phurba. They reached C3 on the 19th and C4 on the 20th. At 3:00 am on the 21st Pauner and the two Sherpas left C4 for the summit. The Sherpas had started using oxygen for sleeping in C4, but Pauner had not and was not using it as they climbed above C4. They got into the couloir at 3:30 am and had reached the top of it (8300m) at 8:30 am, when Pauner felt he had no "power" left in his body and legs. He decided to go down, and the Sherpas descended with him. They arrived at C4 at 6:00 pm. It became fully apparent the next day that he had cerebral edema. The next morning, 22 May, Pauner got up at 7:00 am; he was feeling well and started down, but after an hour he suddenly lost his balance, couldn't walk straight and kept falling down. By the time they reached the junction with the route up to Everest, he couldn't walk at all. A German doctor gave him an injection, the Sherpas found a bottle of oxygen, and Catalan climbers coming down Everest gave him an oxygen mask and regulator. Half an hour later, he had felt the warmth of the oxygen flowing through him, and he could walk again. He descended to C2 that day. When Pauner got to BC on the 23rd, he realized that he had bad frostbite on the bottom of his right big toe which was painful. He called for a helicopter, went to Gorak Shep on the 25th and was flown from there to Kathmandu on the 26th. Sherpas: Ang Phurba, 26/8/67 (10/5/2024), Choplung, Chaurikharka-3, Solu, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X4 Pasang Tshering, 27/12/73, Thamiteng, Everest X2, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X1, K2 X1
Accidents Pauner cerebral edema and frostbite
Achievement -
Agency Thamserku Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2457336
Year 2008
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) w face

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Juan Carlos Pauner Gotor M 1964 Spain Leader Zaragoza City, Zaragoza, Spain Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Francisco Javier Perez Garcia M 1967 Spain Climber Zaragoza, Spain Engineer Details Other expeditions
Pasang Tshering (Ang Pasang) Sherpa M 1973 Nepal H-A Worker Thamiteng, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ang Phurba Sherpa M 1967 Nepal H-A Worker Chheplung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LHOT08110 - - http://www.carlospauner.com/eng/lhotse/index.php - - -