Lhotse | 2007 W Face

A Nepal expedition to Lhotse in 2007 via W Face, led by Pemba Doma Sherpa. Summit reached on 21st May 2007. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 5737
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LHOT07110
Peak ID LHOT
Year 2007
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Nepal
Leaders Pemba Doma Sherpa
Sponsor Pemba Doma's Lhotse Climb
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 105
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lukla->Namche->Lobuche->BC
Basecamp Date 2007-05-12
Summit Date 2007-05-21
Summit Time 1100
Summit Days 9
Total Days 16
Termination Date 2007-05-28
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8516
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 1
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(12/05,5300m),C2(17/05,6500m),C3(19/05,7200m),C4(20/05,7900m),Smt(21/05)
Route Notes BC at Khumbu Glacier C2 at Western Cwm C3 at Lhotse West Face C4 at Lhotse Face. Lhotse - Pemba Doma - Spring 2007 Pemba Doma and Da Sange left C4 at 6 am, reached summit at 12:24 pm [11:30 according to Ministry of Tourism]. They stayed on summit between 5 to 10 minutes. They were followed by one member (Falahey) and two Sherpas (Palden Namgya and Nawang Tenzing both from Phortse) of Asian Trekking. Then they started descending. About 100 meters below the summit there is a small flat area where 3 or 4 people can sit, Pemba Doma asked Da Sange to go little away from her (Da Sange thought that she might want to urinate). Da Sange was just 5 or 6 steps down, he suddenly heard her frighening scream and before he could realize the reason Pemba Doma took him along down. Pemba Doma fell all the way down to the base of Lhotse face. Later at C4 Da Sange was told by they two Sherpas that he was unconscious and they brought him down to C4 still unconscious. The two Sherpas found Da Sange stuck on an empty Oxygen cylinder with his large backpack. Next day Da Sange went down to C2 and on 23 to BC. He was not seriously injured; only he had pain in his left side ribs. Pemba Dome's body was retrieved on 22 May and cremated in Tengboche on 25 May. Da Sange said that there was no sign of altitude effect on Pemba Doma. She was quite Ok and happy with her achievement. He thinks most probably her crampon might some how stuck on her garment and got off balance on the slope. According to Da Sange camps were the same as of Thomas Masterson. Pemba Doma shared the tent with another woman (Cristina Piolini?) climber who was supposed to go to Lhotse and Everest at C4 on 20 May. Martin Minarik, Czech climber who was ascending on Lhotse on 21 May, told Miss Hawley that he saw falling of Pemba Doma and Sherpa. He said that at around 1:30 pm he had to step aside because climbers descending from the top including Pemba Doma were kicking lots of snow and ice and he did not want it hit his face. A minute later Pemba Doma came falling down. She would have taken him along if he did not duck aside. Minarik told Miss Hawley that Pemba Doma fell from the same spot where his friend Kalny fell last year and on his descending from C4 on 22 May he saw Pemba Doma's body where his friend's body was (fell last year). Rajen Thapa, husband of Pemba Doma, and Da Sange said that she arrived BC on 12 May whereas Masterson's email mentioned the date as on 11 May. Rajen also told me that Pemba Doma summited at about 12:30 pm and she climbed Lhotse in 10 days of her arrival to BC. Da Sange Sherpa from Bhakanje-1. He was 17 years old at the time of issuing the citizenship certificate on 12-1-2045. Lhotse is his first 8000m summit. He was on Dhaulagiri two years ago. He had to turn back from C1 because members gave up climbing. Source: Rajen Thapa, Da Sange, email of Thomas Masterson, Miss Hawley as told by Minarik, and information about Asian Trekking Lhotse team from Billi. Mrs. Pemba Doma fatal accident on Lhotse Blair Falahey, Australian independent climber, told Billi on 29 May 2007 that when his summit party left C4 at 7800m for the top, the weather was clear but the snow conditions were difficult as there was a thin crust on top of the snow. When they arrived at the summit at 11:00 am, Pemba Doma was there with another Sherpa. The descent was difficult facing down, so they down climbed facing the mountain side. They overtook Pemba Doma on the down-climb and heard her scream and saw her slip when they were at 8300m. The next thing they say was Pemba Doma and the Sherpa with her, slipping past them. Falahey said they were not going very fast, but he could not stop them. The other Sherpa managed to stop himself, but Pemba Doma slipped farther, and they lost sight of her. Falahey and his party helped the other climber, who was in shock, down to C4, which they reached at 5 pm. Email from Thomas Masterson - 31 July 2007 Pemba Doma arrived at BC for the first time on 11 May. She went from BC to C2 on 11 May. She went from BC to C2 on 17 May to C3 on 19 May & C4 on 20 May. She headed up from C4 to 5:30 am about an hour earlier than I. These times are estimated from dawn as I did not have a watch, and so I also have no idea as to the time she got to the summit. I was bit above the summit ridge col heading up the final bit as she was coming down. Weather was nice; no frostbite or other injuries. There were people descending from the South Col on Everest who saw them fall. I believe her Sherpa was "Sangay." These folks should have much more reliable information on her climb than I. Pemba Doma was climbing with a Sherpa; they were apparently roped together. Whe the accident occured, both fell and the Sherpa was also seriously injured. I did not see the accident as they were ahead of me and on their way down while I was higher up near the summit. I was climbing solo.
Accidents Pemba Doma's fatal fall
Achievement 1st Nepali woman on Lhotse summit?
Agency Climb High Himalaya
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2456969
Year 2007
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) w face

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Pemba Doma Thaktopa Sherpa F 1970 Nepal Leader Namche Bazar, Khumbu Runs a trekking agency (Climb High Himalaya) Details Other expeditions
Da Sange (Ang Sange) Sherpa M 1971 Nepal H-A Worker Bhakanje-1, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LHOT07110 CLIM - - - 44:70-71 (Oct 2008) -