Lhotse | 2006 W Face

A Czech Republic expedition to Lhotse in 2006 via W Face, led by Martin Minarik. Summit reached on 9th May 2006. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 5323
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LHOT06108
Peak ID LHOT
Year 2006
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Czech Republic
Leaders Martin Minarik
Sponsor Czechs to Lhotse
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2006-04-15
Summit Date 2006-05-09
Summit Time -
Summit Days 24
Total Days 28
Termination Date 2006-05-13
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8420m due to member's death
High Point (m) 8420
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(15/04,5350m),C1(21/04,6100m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(26/04,7700m),xxx(09/05,8420m)
Route Notes C1 at top of Icefall - occupied only 1 night C2 in Western Cwm C3 on West Face C4 at right of top of Geneva Spur High point at West Face Couloir After established C3, down to BC to rest. Left from BC on 5 May and went straight through to C3 same day; rested 1 day in c3; 7th went to C4 stayed there till evening of 8 May. Left in summit bid at about 10:00 pm and had to break trail since no one had gone ahead of them. Snow was solid and did not require them to fix any rope; left their rope at bottom of couloir. Got to 80-100m below summit in couloir, taking turns leading in deep snow in couloir, Kalny had stomach problem but insisted on pushing on to top; they agreed they would turn back at 5:00 pm; at 4:00 pm Kalny starting to hallucinate and Minark insisted they descend immediately and did 4:00 pm, he suddenly realized Kalny no longer beside him; found him in deep snow 200m below turn around point (300 linear meter below) without helmet which had left in C4. Minarik took 15 minutes to reach him; Kalny looked Ok and said he was fine only in shock. They continued down, Kalny ahead of Minarik. At about 7850m altitude Kalny asked Minarik to go ahead to C4 to make drink for him and Minarik did so, but Kalny did not come to C4. Minarik stayed in C4 not searching in night because he was tired and nowhere to look up or down. In morning 10 May Sherpas going to South Col told Minarik that Kalny was below and alive; Kalny had gotten nearly to C3 and 5 hours after Minarik reached him, he died of multiple injuries internally. Kalny no longer wearing his gloves, which must have been stolen by Sherpas. Body wrapped in bag near seracs and no help from other team to cover him. Minarik got frostbitten toes in summit push. This was Kalny's first Himalayan peak but many climbs and up to 7000m in Pamirs, etc. When Minarik looked down towards C3 saw Kalny being given oxygen by some Sherpas.
Accidents Kalny's fatal fall; Minarik's frostbite
Achievement -
Agency Iceland Trekking (Tendi)
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2456591
Year 2006
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) w face

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Pavel Kalny M 1967 Czech Republic Climber Ceske Budejovice, Czech Republic Physician Details Other expeditions
Martin Minarik M 1967 Czech Republic Leader Blatnicka, Czech Republic Tour company owner Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LHOT06108 - - http://www.martinminarik.cz - - -