Lhotse | 2005 W Face

A Portugal expedition to Lhotse in 2005 via W Face, led by Joao Garcia. Summit reached on 21st May 2005. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4989
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LHOT05101
Peak ID LHOT
Year 2005
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Portugal
Leaders Joao Garcia
Sponsor Portuguese Lhotse Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 96th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2005-04-12
Summit Date 2005-05-21
Summit Time 1330
Summit Days 39
Total Days 42
Termination Date 2005-05-24
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8516
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(12/04,5350m),C1(16/04,6000m),C2919/04,6400m),C3(20/05,7200m),Smt(21/05)
Route Notes C1 at top of Icefall C2 at West Cwm C3 at West Face. Went to BC 17 April. 19 April in C1 and moved it to C2. 20 April to BC. 4 days in BC rest in good weather. 25 April BC to C2. 26 April up to C3 site to place gear there and returned to C2. 29 April BC and 30 April to Pangboche to rest and arrived with inexperienced climbers plugging him for advice and help. 6 May returned to BC. 9 May to C2 to reacclimatize and check tent and go up to check C3 tent but windy so did not reach C3 and returned to C2. 12 May to BC. Weather forecast for bad weather so again to Pangboche on 14 May. Returned to BC on 18 May after weather forecast there would be "window" on 20 and 21 May. 19 May to C2 and found Garcia's sleeping bag with important medical kit stolen by Thamserku Trekking Sherpa and found bag in his tent but medical kit gone (very important for Garcia because amputated fingers very susceptible to new frostbite). 20th to C3, where Santos had very bad headache and stomach trouble so stayed in C3 while Garcia left C3 at 11:00 pm of 20 May and 4:30 am of 21st reached Korean C4 at 7800m; on up the couloir and left to Lhotse summit in strong wind in final snow above couloir; on top at about 1:30 pm, slipped twice in couloir because crampons skidded on rocks; back at C3 at 5:00 pm and slept there without sleeping bag because Santos had taken it to C2, thinking Garcia would be there 21st night. Garcia joined Santos in C2 on 22nd and slept there. 23rd in BC. Garcia without rest from Pangboche up to top 21 May to KTM 26 May.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Arun Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2456237
Year 2005
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Joao Jose Silva Abranches Garcia M 1967 Portugal Leader Lisbon, Portugal Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Helder Santos M 1976 Portugal Climber Cascais, Portugal Self-employed finisher of home interior walls and ceilings Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LHOT05101 - Garcia, Joao Mais Alem, Depois do Evereste Caderno, Lisbon, Portugal - -