Lhotse | 2002 W Face
A Japan expedition to Lhotse in 2002 via W Face, led by Toichiro Mitani. Summit reached on 3rd October 2002. 8 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 4197 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | LHOT02301 |
| Peak ID | LHOT |
| Year | 2002 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | W Face |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Toichiro Mitani |
| Sponsor | Meiji University Lhotse Expedition |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 77th,80th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 2002-09-01 |
| Summit Date | 2002-10-03 |
| Summit Time | 0920 |
| Summit Days | 32 |
| Total Days | 43 |
| Termination Date | 2002-10-14 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8516 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 750 |
| Total Members | 6 |
| Summit Members | 6 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 5 |
| Summit Hired | 2 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | True |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(01/09,5350m),C1(10/09,6000m),C2(14/09,6450m),C3(22/09,7200m),C4(02/10,7750m),Smt(03,08/10) |
| Route Notes | C1 at top of Icefall C2 on Western Cwm C3 on West Face C4 on West Face below couloir. After placing gear at C4 site 23 Sept, down to BC for rest. Left C4 for top at 4:00 am and reached top 9:20 am in very clear weather (could see into W Cwm) and Japanese down to C2, Lhakpa Rita to BC. 8 Oct from C4 7:15 am only because very strong wind and small avalanche had waited for better conditions. Amano had left C4 at midnight and reached entrance to couloir (8100m) at 2.30 cms down to C4 at 3:00 am because strong wind and small avalanches came down couloir and climbers had to stay at one side of it or the other. Then he went up again with other 2 members and Sherpa to summit. Reached top 12:35 pm (Kato and Mitani) and 1:10 pm (Amano and Sherpa). All in this summit party slept in C3 that night. Oxygen: Amano never used it. Other members sometimes sleeping in C3; all 5 sleeping in C4, climbing from C4 to top and back to C4 only; both sherpas sleeping in C4, up to top and back to C4 only. |
| Accidents | Nothing |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Cosmo Treks |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2455228 |
| Year | 2002 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | w face |
Members
8 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kazuaki Amano | M | 1977 | Japan | Climber | Kokubunji, Tokyo, Japan | Alpine shop staff member | Details Other expeditions |
| Yoshinobu Kato | M | 1976 | Japan | Climber | Wakakusa, Nakakoma-ku, Yamanashi, Japan | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Hiroshi Matsumoto | M | 1980 | Japan | Climber | Takasaki, Gunma, Japan | Agriculture student | Details Other expeditions |
| Toichiro Mitani | M | 1956 | Japan | Leader | Kotohira, Kagawa, Japan | Insurance salesman | Details Other expeditions |
| Shoichi Mori | M | 1975 | Japan | Climber | Sagamihara, Kanagawa, Japan | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Kazuhiro Takahashi | M | 1973 | Japan | Deputy Leader | Tokyo, Japan | Teacher | Details Other expeditions |
| Lhakpa Rita Sherpa | M | 1971 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Phortse, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Palden Namgye/Namgyal Sherpa | M | 1972 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Phortse, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
0 recorded references.