Lhotse | 2002 W Face

A UK expedition to Lhotse in 2002 via W Face, led by Henry Todd. Summit reached on 16th May 2002. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4074
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LHOT02105
Peak ID LHOT
Year 2002
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Henry Todd
Sponsor Himalayan Guides Everest and Lhotse Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 72nd,76th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia, Hungary, USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2002-04-08
Summit Date 2002-05-16
Summit Time 0920
Summit Days 38
Total Days 40
Termination Date 2002-05-18
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8516
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Everest (EVER-021-39); Lock climbed Manaslu (MANA-021-05)
Campsites BC(08/04,5350m),C1(15/04,6100m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(26/04,7300m),C4(16/05,7800m),Smt(16-17/05); Lock (see notes)
Route Notes Lock came to Lhotse from Manaslu directly: he used Todd's camps, food ropes and thus not really independent climber. Lock rested in BC, 1 to 3 May then to C2 directly on 4 May using Henry Todd's ABC where Todd's staff provided food. 5 May to C3 again in Henry Todd's tent but own food. 6 May left gear at C2 and down to BC. Weather not right for summit attempt, so sat in BC reading books. 12 May to C2. 14th to C3, 15th to C4 and Todd's tent. Left C4 1:00 am 16 May (1 hour after Koreans), up couloir, steep but not seriously, to top up slightly loose rock, in slight wind which was very cold. On top 9:20 am, after Koreans but before all others. Down to C2 at 6:30 pm. 17 May to BC. Really tired coming down to C2 without any oxygen. Left BC on 18 May. Lock: BC(30/04),C2(04/05),C3(05/05),C4(15/05,7800m),Smt(16/05) Mellor and Mingma Nuru left C4 for summit on 17 May at 1:30 am, were on top at 11:00 am (Mellor) and 11:30 am (Mingma Nuru) and down to C3 same day, and then helped Eross of Todd's Everest team descend. Morris got to C4 on 24th at 2:00 am, found tent had been stolen so down to BC same day.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Himalayan Guides
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID EVER02139
Checksum 2455088
Year 2002
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) w face

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Zoltan Robert Acs M 1969 Hungary Climber Nyiregyhaza, Hungary Fitness instructor Details Other expeditions
George David Mellor M 1942 UK Climber Freeport, Bahamas Retired businessman Details Other expeditions
Laszlo Mezey M 1970 Hungary Climbing Leader Budapest, Hungary Physical education teacher Details Other expeditions
Michael Austin (Mike) Morris M 1968 USA Climber Snowbird, Utah Alpine guide & ski patrolman Details Other expeditions
Henry Barclay Todd M 1945 UK Leader Edinburgh, Scotland Expedition organizer & leader Details Other expeditions
Andrew James Lock M 1961 Australia Climber Berowra, NSW, Australia Travel agent Details Other expeditions
Mingma Nuru Sherpa M 1969 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LHOT02105 HIGH - - - 244:58 (Mar 2003) -