Lhotse | 2001 S Face

A Japan expedition to Lhotse in 2001 via S Face, led by Osamu Tanabe. Summit reached on 18th December 2001. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 3950
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LHOT01401
Peak ID LHOT
Year 2001
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Osamu Tanabe
Sponsor 40th Anniversary JAC-Tokai Winter Lhotse South Face Exp 2001
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Via Chhukung to Lhotse Glacier and on glacier
Basecamp Date 2001-11-14
Summit Date 2001-12-18
Summit Time -
Summit Days 34
Total Days 41
Termination Date 2001-12-25
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7600m due to fierce winds
High Point (m) 7600
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 3900
Total Members 7
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 15
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(14/11,5200m),C1(01/12,5900m),C2(06/12,7100m),xxx(18/12,7600m)
Route Notes BC north of Island Peak C1 on South Face C2 on South Face High point on South Face. In Nov made route to C1 but had ice blocks and rock falls, very dangerous, so could not make C1 at 6400m, so made camp at 5900m instead. Very strong winds on 18th and 19th Dec and so gave up. Tanabe slept in C2 both nights. 20th Tanabe climbed to 7300m but could go no higher with such winds and decided to stop expedition. Face is about 3300m high. All 5 members and 8 Sherpas used oxygen sleeping in C2; above C2 members and Sherpas used above C2 on 18th Tanabe and 2 Sherpas used it (Sherpas only in morning when very cold); Tobita used in BC when sick. 4 Japanese hit by rock fall; some Sherpas also. Above C1 to C2 dangerous from rock fall after 8:30 am so Sherpas started climbing at midnight and Japanese at 4:00 am. Below 7000m not so cold, but at C2 -30 to -35 degrees. Not difficult technically. Route was near 1981 Yugoslav route.
Accidents Tobita cerebral edema, went to BC only and left exped 26 Nov; Suzuki had chronic back pain, went to C1 once and left exped 15 Dec
Achievement -
Agency Rolwaling Excursion
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2454938
Year 2001
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) s face

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Yasuhiro Hanatani M 1976 Japan Climber Sarashina, Nagano, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Otani Hisao M 1969 Japan Climber Yokohama, Japan Engineer Details Other expeditions
Manabu Miyoshi M 1966 Japan Climber Toyohashi, Aichi, Japan Driver Details Other expeditions
Mikio Suzuki M 1967 Japan Climber Kyoto, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Masamiki Takine M 1951 Japan Deputy Leader Nagoya, Aichi, Japan Post office employee Details Other expeditions
Osamu Tanabe M 1961 Japan Leader Nagoya, Aichi, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Kazuo Tobita M 1946 Japan Climber Saitama-shi, Saitama, Japan Telephone engineer Details Other expeditions
Mingma Tshering/Tsiri Sherpa M 1970 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Nima Gyalzen Sherpa M 1976 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions

References

8 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LHOT01401 AAJ Tanabe, Osamu - - 76:416-417 (2002) -
LHOT01401 HJ Tanabe, Osamu Lhotse South Face in Winter - 58:156-159 (2002) -
LHOT01401 JAN Tanabe, Osamu Lhotse South Face in Winter - 2:1-2 (Apr 2002) -
LHOT01401 JAC Tanabe, Osamu Lhotse South Face in Winter 2001 - 97:A28-29 (2002) -
LHOT01401 JAC Tanabe, Osamu Lhotse South Face in Winter 2001 - 97:171-177 (2002) -
LHOT01401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200241600/Asia-Nepal-Khumbu-Himal-Lhotse-South-Face-Winter-Attempt - - -
LHOT01401 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/58/18/expeditions-and-notes-58/ - - -
LHOT01401 - - http://www.jac.or.jp/english/jan/vol2/Lhotse.pdf - - -