Lhotse | 2001 W Face

A Italy expedition to Lhotse in 2001 via W Face, led by Simone Moro. Summit reached on 23rd May 2001. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 3831
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LHOT01102
Peak ID LHOT
Year 2001
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Simone Moro
Sponsor Lhotse Everest Traverse 2001
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 67th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Kazakhstan
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2001-04-07
Summit Date 2001-05-23
Summit Time 1000
Summit Days 46
Total Days 50
Termination Date 2001-05-27
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8516
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(07/04),C2(10/04,6400m),C3(22/04,7400m),C4(30/04,7900m),C5(21/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
Route Notes C2 in West Cwm C3 on Lhotse West Face C4 at South Col C5 on Lhotse West Face. Were first people with Russia Lhotse team to reach col. 1 May down to BC and rest below BC with plan to go to C2 and C3 and summit Lhotse and traverse ridge with several diversions down West Face of Lhotse to South Col and up to Everest summit and down North Face illegally and return to Nepal side via Lha La. About 5 May returned BC and 6 May to C2. 7th May snowing so down to BC. Made 5 trips through Icefall but down because of snowfall. Decided to change tactics and attempt Lhotse first and Everest second. From BC to C3 direct 6 hours 15 minutes on 20 May. Day after that went up to go to Lhotse top and reached 8000m and down to C3 because Moro started vomiting and lost strength so back to BC and again below BC to Deboche and Namche. Back for 3rd time to BC. 20 May BC to C2; 21st to C4 of Lhotse at 7900m and established this camp, ready to go Lhotse summit on 23rd. At 6:00 pm on 21st however, shouting by Zaluski (with Anna Czerwinska who saw fall by Pfisterer member Thomas Moore), so Moro immediately out to do rescue from 8000m vertically above Lhotse C3. Moro alone up to find that Moores, who was alive at 7:00 pm lying on back in deep snow which could avalanche onto C3 at any time. Moore said "leave me, don't tell mama"; had lost crampons and face bleeding. Moro climbed up with Moores on back to near bottom of couloir at 8200m and down Moro's C4, put Moores in Moro's tent, gave medicine and water. Next day Moro organized 2 Sherpas to carry down to BC. Moro stayed 2nd night in C4 to go Lhotse top from traverse to Everest. Reached 8200m and tired so down to BC while Denis went to Lhotse top. Denis on Lhotse top 23rd with other teams and down to BC same day. No other teams would join Moro to rescue Moores because they said would lose their chance for summit if they did. Moro told Denis Urubko, his teammate, to stay in camp because of serious avalanche danger. 1 June 20O1 - Spanish Lhotse leader Cadiach said he joined Moro to go to help Moro rescue Moores.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2454729
Year 2001
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Simone Moro M 1967 Italy Leader Bergamo, Italy Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Denis Viktorovich Urubko M 1973 Kazakhstan Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan Alpinist Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LHOT01102 HIGH - - - 231:72 (Feb 2002) -
LHOT01102 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 76:414 (2002) -
LHOT01102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200241400/Asia-Nepal-Khumbu-Himal-Lhotse-Rescue - - -