Lhotse | 2000 E section of S Face of Lhotse & Lhotse Shar

A Russia expedition to Lhotse in 2000 via E section of S Face of Lhotse & Lhotse Shar, led by Mikhail Turkevich. Summit reached on 3rd October 2000. 21 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 3731
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LHOT00303
Peak ID LHOT
Year 2000
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 E section of S Face of Lhotse & Lhotse Shar
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Russia
Leaders Mikhail Turkevich
Sponsor Lhotse-Lhotse Shar Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Ukraine
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2000-09-01
Summit Date 2000-10-03
Summit Time -
Summit Days 32
Total Days 36
Termination Date 2000-10-07
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7000m due to bad weather
High Point (m) 7000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 21
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(01/09,5100m),ABC(02-03/09,5250m),C1(07-08/09,5800m),C2(06/09,6250m),xxx(03/10,7000m)
Route Notes BC at west side of Lhotse Glacier ABC on glacier C1 on South Face C2 on South Face High point at South Face. 17 Sept climbers on fixed ropes as their way to make C3. Kovaliev, Turkevich, Koval, Glazov, Bondarev and Dorro when avalanche hit (started from 7100m) at 6500m and swept down Bondarev, who was leading and may be not attached to rope securely. Swept down to 5200m or more (don't know). His jacket and backpack found at about 5300m within one hour but body not found in very deep snow. 18 Sept decided to stop climb and took down camp in search and more and more snowfall. Searched in dangerous snow conditions. Kept searching actually until 1 Oct by which time spot where avalanche had hit 10+ metres deep. C1 had been left while decided to reestablish C2 and continue climb and also to search C2 area more widely. Made C2 again on 3 Oct and started up again from C2 when radio message from ministry for emergency saying weather not going to improve so recommended stop climb and resume climb in spring. Reached almost 7000m on fixed lines. Hope to return next spring. We rescuers never leave a lost collegue. They planned to climb South Face of Lhotse-Lhotse Shar to a col between these two peaks about 8200-8500m, which no previous climbers had done. From there, half of members to go left along Lhotse's East Ridge to its central summit [Lhotse Middle] while other half members to go right along Lhotse Shar's West Ridge to its summit at same time. ** Members who attempted Lhotse Shar are Anatoli Andriouchenkov, Vladimir Bondarev, Constantin Dorro, Alexander Glazov, Kurban Kurbanov, Shanavaz Shanavazov and Igor Slobodtchikov. From Russian web site: "Though in the permit of the expedition mentioned only Lhotse Main and Lhotse Shar, the main goal is to attempt the unclimbed Lhotse Middle summit."
Accidents Kurbanov serious intestinal problem; Bondarev killed by avalanche
Achievement New route claimed
Agency Himalaya Expeditions
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2454496
Year 2000
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e section of s face of lhotse & lhotse shar

Members

21 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Igor Afanasiev M 1965 Russia Climber Vladikavkaz, Ossetia, Russia Rescuer Details Other expeditions
Anatoli Andriouchenkov M 1951 Russia Climber Maykop, North Caucasus, Russia Rescuer Details Other expeditions
Valeri Bonarev M 1964 Russia Deputy Leader Sochi, Russia Rescuer Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Bondarev M 1965 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Rescuer Details Other expeditions
Igor Bondarenko M 1968 Russia Climber Vladikavkaz, Ossetia, Russia Rescuer Details Other expeditions
Constantin Dorro M 1967 Russia Climber Mahachkala, Dagestan, Russia Rescuer Details Other expeditions
Yuri Gavts M 1963 Russia Climber Kislovodsk, Russia Rescuer Details Other expeditions
Alexander Glazov M 1966 Russia Climber Vladikavkaz, Ossetia, Russia Rescuer Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Gonchar M 1961 Ukraine Climber Elbrus, Russia Rescuer Details Other expeditions
Alexander (Sasha) Koval M 1953 Russia Climber Sochi, Russia Rescuer Details Other expeditions
Sergei Kovalev M 1966 Ukraine Climber Donetsk, Ukraine Rescuer Details Other expeditions
Vyacheslav Kozlov M 1973 Russia BC Manager South Sahalinsk, Russia Rescuer Details Other expeditions
Kurban Kurbanov M 1962 Russia Climber Kaspisk, Dagestan, Russia Rescuer Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Loukiaev M 1949 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Rescuer Details Other expeditions
Gennadi Melnikov M 1973 Russia Climber Elbrus, Russia Rescuer Details Other expeditions
Sergei Panine M 1949 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Rescuer Details Other expeditions
Igor Romanov M 1964 Russia Exp Doctor Maykop, North Caucasus, Russia Rescuer & cameraman Details Other expeditions
Shanavaz Shanavazov M 1967 Russia Climber Mahachkala, Dagestan, Russia Rescuer Details Other expeditions
Igor Slobodtchikov M 1970 Russia Climber Gorno-Alzaisk, Altai, Russia Rescuer Details Other expeditions
Sergei Smotrov M 1958 Russia Climber Mahachkala, Dagestan, Russia Rescuer Details Other expeditions
Mikhail Mikhailovich Turkevich M 1953 Russia Leader Noginsk, Moscow, Russia Rescuer Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LHOT00303 HIGH - - - 226:60 (Sep 2001) -
LHOT00303 - - http://old.risk.ru/eng/mount/himalaya/autumn2000/mchs/index.html - - -