Lhotse Middle | 2001 W Face-S Col-Lhotse N Ridge-N Face

A Russia expedition to Lhotse Middle in 2001 via W Face-S Col-Lhotse N Ridge-N Face, led by Sergei Timofeev. Summit reached on 23rd May 2001. 15 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 3838
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LHOM01101
Peak ID LHOM
Year 2001
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face-S Col-Lhotse N Ridge-N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Russia
Leaders Sergei Timofeev
Sponsor Russian Lhotse Middle Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st-3rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2001-03-29
Summit Date 2001-05-23
Summit Time 1500
Summit Days 55
Total Days 60
Termination Date 2001-05-28
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8410
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 1400
Total Members 15
Summit Members 9
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(29/03),C1(06/04,6100m),C2(10/04,6500m),C3(21/04,7300m),C4(30/04,7900m),C5(22/05,8150m),Smt(23-24,27/05)
Route Notes C1 at top of Icefall C2 in West Cwm C3 on West Face C4 at South Col C5 at Lhotse Face. So many camps at C2 took 1/2 hour to go from 1st one to the highest one. 1 May started up from South Col to 8250m site for C1 at first pinnacle and left loads. 2 May same. 3 May to BC because bad weather at high altitude. 10 May up from BC and 13 May arrived South Col C4. 14 May went up from C4 to fix 300m beyond C5 sites and return to Col. 15 May bad weather and all down to BC. 17 May up again and 19 May arrived Col. 20 and 21 May from South Col to C5 carrying equipment. Others followed up from BC for extending routes and going for top. 22 May finally C5 slept in by Bolotov, Vinogradski, Kouznetsov and Timofeev and they went to top on 23 May. From South Col route lay over snow and rock to C5 and no fixed rope required. Beyond C5 fixed 1400m over snow and much rock to top some of it 65-75 degrees; final rock steep 90 degrees "very difficult." Top actually big cornice. All summiters slept in BC the day after their summit successes. First summit party left C5 at 5:30 am were on summit at 3:00 pm and returned to C5 8:00 pm. Second party left C5 at 6:30 am, on top at 12:00 noon, returned to C4 4:00 pm. Third party left C5 at 6:30 am, on top at 11:00, returned to C4 at 3:00 pm. Oxygen used by all summiters up from South Col (not in C4): all up from C4 to C5; not used sleeping in C5 on their way up. 1st summit party used it up from C5 to top, returning to C5 and sleeping in C5 in return from top; 2nd and 3rd parties used it up from C5 to top and down to C5 but not down from C5 to C4.
Accidents Bad throat for Elagin and Ezmachek; Sherpa Karma bad stomach
Achievement 1st ascent of middle summit
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2454729
Year 2001
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) w face-s col-lhotse n ridge-n face

Members

15 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Alexei Bolotov M 1963 Russia Climber Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Metallurgical engineer Details Other expeditions
Igor Borisenko M 1962 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Sergei Chakuro M 1956 Russia Climber Novokuznetsk, Russia Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Nikolai Dmitrievich Cherny M 1938 Russia Deputy Leader Moscow, Russia Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Vasili Elagin M 1953 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Yuri Ermachek M 1962 Russia Climber Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Sports club official Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Ianotchkine M 1951 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Teaches sports in technical school Details Other expeditions
Nikolai (Nike) Jiline M 1950 Russia Climber Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Construction worker Details Other expeditions
Yuri Koshelenko M 1963 Russia Climber Rostov-on-Don, Russia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Piotr (Petr) Kouznetsov M 1958 Russia Climber Jelesnogorsk, Russia Construction engineer Details Other expeditions
Victor Kozlov M 1956 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Expedition manager Details Other expeditions
Gleb Sokolov M 1953 Russia Climber Novosibirsk, Siberia, Russia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Sergei Timofeev M 1957 Russia Leader Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Engineer Details Other expeditions
Evgeni Vinogradski M 1946 Russia Exp Doctor Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Physician Details Other expeditions
Victor Volodine M 1962 Russia Climber Moscow, Russia Director of alpine sports club Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LHOM01101 HIGH - - - 231:69-71 (Feb 2002) -
LHOM01101 AAJ Koshelenko, Yuri Unraveling the Mystery of Lhotse Middle - 76:166-175 (2002) -
LHOM01101 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 76:413-414 (2002) -
LHOM01101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200241302/Asia-Nepal-Khumbu-Himal-Lhotse-Middle-First-Ascent - - -
LHOM01101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200216600/Unraveling-the-Mystery-of-Lhotse-Middle - - -
LHOM01101 - - https://explorersweb.com/through-the-unknown-to-the-impossible-lhotse-middle/ - - -