Leonpo Gang | 1987 W Face-W Ridge

A S Korea expedition to Leonpo Gang in 1987 via W Face-W Ridge, led by Ryong Yoon-Jae. Summit reached on 27th September 1987. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 274
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LEON87301
Peak ID LEON
Year 1987
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face-W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality S Korea
Leaders Ryong Yoon-Jae
Sponsor 1987 Jugal Himal Expedition of Chonnam Univ Medical School Alpine Club
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 5th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Dhunche Khola->Langtang Khola->Langshisa Kharka
Basecamp Date 1987-09-03
Summit Date 1987-09-27
Summit Time 0815
Summit Days 24
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6979
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(02/09,4750m),ABC(10/09,5000m),C1(19/09,5800m),C2(21/09,6250m),C3(26/09,6650m),Smt(27/09)
Route Notes BC at Langshisa Glacier on line between Urkinmang and Langshisa Ri ABC on glacier east of BC 2 kms C1 above ice wall C2 on West Face almost at West Ridge C3 on West Ridge. Between 3rd and 19th Sep bad weather, so waited for improvement. Impossible to climb SW Ridge because so many avalanches so went over to West Face; most difficult section was below C2 very steep (60-70 degrees, some vertical) snow. Lee led most of route: very strong and technically excellent; Kim even stronger. 1600m from ABC to C1 and steep part below C2. Summit party left C3 at 6:20 am and on top at 8:15 am without problem in good weather. Did not send another summit party because there were frequent small avalanches below C1 and small team. Leader did not reach C1, Cho stayed at ABC directing logistics and climbing, Hang and Khon were support climbers only. Expedition/Leonpo Gang by Cho Seok-Phil The other route toward Langshisa Glacier, opposite side of East Ridge, was only once attempted by an English expedition team 30 years ago, but, regretably, 3 members of them happened to die in avalanche. After that accident, our approach is the first trial through this route. When enter into the Langshisa Glacier, there exist 3 routes in theory: West Ridge, SW Ridge, West Face and our choice was the West Face. We established BC on Sept 3, and through an Advance Camp of Sept 3, and moved up to a Deposit Camp on Sept 15 on the way to approach. The climbing to Leonpo Gang really came in earnest. Parties were completely divided for climbing and support, and the climbing pary decided to proceed with the alpine style. In the face of pressing dangers from avalanche of ice and snow as well as collapse in spots, we had great difficulties in this West Face route. To minimize the risks, we had to reduce the time of our staying as short as possible. The way to C1 was a snow face of 60-80 degree in 500m long, which we named "The Toh Wang Gil" after 2 days of climbing by member Lee Jeong-Houn, almost by himself thoroughly, C1 was secured on Sept 19. Advancing toward C2 was also blocked by more giant slope snow face, named by "The Haneul" of 70 degrees in 600 meters long. Struggling through the ice and snowfall, Lee Jeong-Houn overcame this route and then, he established C2 (6200m) of 1 tent on upper band of snow face by using 2 snow bars. Due to bad weather, all members retreated to the Advance Camp and waited till the weather to be better. Finally on Sept, members Lee Jeong-Houn and Kim Soo-Hyeon started for a route of attack with 2 Sherpas, Pemba and Gombu. On that day Kim and Pemba arrived at C1 and Lee and Gombu came up to C2 at 5:00 pm and then, the four established C3 (6650m) on Sept 26. It was Sunday Sept 27. After 2 hours from C3, they all 2 members and 2 Sherpas climbed up to the summit at last at 8:15 am. Even all the members of expedition were unexperienced with the Himalayan mountains though, they have achieved a real remarkable success - the first summit through the West Face route of Leonpo Gang.
Accidents None except one Sherpa sprained foot; another Sherpa bad cough and left expedition
Achievement -
Agency Adventure Nepal
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449728
Year 1987
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face-w ridge

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Suk-Phil Cho M 1953 S Korea Deputy Leader Gwangju (Kwangju), Jeollanam, S Korea Physician, pediatrcian Details Other expeditions
Woon-Ki Hong M 1964 S Korea Climber Gwangju (Kwangju), Jeollanam, S Korea Student, medical Details Other expeditions
Soo-Hyeon Kim M 1966 S Korea Climber Jangheung-gun, Jeollanam, S Korea Student, medical Details Other expeditions
Hyeon Kwon M 1955 S Korea Exp Doctor Gwangju (Kwangju), Jeollanam, S Korea Physician, internal medicine Details Other expeditions
Jeong-Hoon Lee M 1964 S Korea Climber Jeonju (Cheonju), Jeollabuk, S Korea Student, medical Details Other expeditions
Da Gombu Sherpa M 1958 Nepal H-A Worker Cheremy, Bung-9, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ang Temba Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Jae-Yoon Ryong M 1931 S Korea Leader Gwangju (Kwangju), Jeollanam, S Korea Professor of medicine Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LEON87301 AAJ Ryong Yoon-Jae - - 62:212 (1988) -
LEON87301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198821202/Asia-Nepal-Loenpo-Gang - - -