Leonpo Gang East | 1955 S Face-SW Ridge

A UK expedition to Leonpo Gang East in 1955 via S Face-SW Ridge, led by Monica Jackson. Summit reached on 11th May 1955. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2809
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LEOE55101
Peak ID LEOE
Year 1955
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face-SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Monica Jackson
Sponsor Scottish Women's Himalayan Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach KTM->Balephi Khola->Tempanthang
Basecamp Date 1955-04-22
Summit Date 1955-05-11
Summit Time -
Summit Days 19
Total Days 25
Termination Date 1955-05-17
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6733
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Recon Leonpo Gang (LEON-551-01)
Campsites BC(22/04,4575m),C1(06/05,4420m),C2(07/05),C3(08/05),C4(09/05),C5(10/05),Smt(11/05)
Route Notes Evelyn Camrass McNicol (by email) - 12 Jan 2005 The climb [Gyalgen Peak] involved ascending through an ice fall, traversing an open glacier, then ascending another icefall with a difficult crossing of a very wide deep crevasse to establish the highest camp from where the summit was reached in one day. Stormy weather kept us at this high camp for two days before we could return to base camp. We estimated that our base camp was at about 15,000 ft, so our first camp at the entrance to the lower ice fall was probably 500 ft lower. From here we established camps 2, 3, 4, and 5 at a days climbing apart and estimated our highest camp was less than 2000 ft below the summit. The reason I cannot be more specific is that we did not have an altimeter which read more than 8000 ft.! We arrived at our base camp on 22nd April 1955 and made an exploratory trip of the Phurbi Chyachumba glacier, returning to base camp on 29th April. Left base camp for second trip on 5th May and climbed Gyalgen Peak on 11th May. Evelyn left base camp on 17th May and with Ang Temba climbed a peak on the Chaksil Danda ridge which she called Bidean Nan Nighean (the Scottish Galic for "the hill of the maiden") estimated to be between 17,000 and 18,000 ft.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2437869
Year 1955
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face-sw ridge

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Monica Jackson F 1920 UK Leader London, England - Details Other expeditions
Rachel Elizabeth Stark F 1923 UK Climber Glasgow, Scotland Speech therapist Details Other expeditions
Mingma Gyalgen Sherpa M 1915 Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions
Ang Temba Sherpa M 1929 Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Evelyn Camrass F 1926 UK Exp Doctor Glasgow, Scotland Physician Details Other expeditions
Chhepela Sherpa M 1920 Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Kusung Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

8 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LEOE55101 HJ Stark, Elizabeth Jugal Himal - 19:75-81 (1955-56) -
LEOE55101 AJ Jackson, Monica The Scottish Women's Himalayan Expedition - 61:60-62 (May 1956) -
LEOE55101 AAJ - - - 30:140 (1956) -
LEOE55101 - Jackson, Monica & Stark, Elizabeth Tents in the Clouds Collins, London - J13
LEOE55101 - Kurz, Marcel Chronique Himalayenne (Supplement) Fondation Suisse Pour Explorations Alpines, Zurich 469-480 -
LEOE55101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12195614001/Asia-Nepal-Jugal-Himal - - -
LEOE55101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/19/6/jugal-himal/ - - -
LEOE55101 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1956_files/AJ61%201956%2060-62%20Jackson%20Scottish%20Women's%20Exped.pdf - - -