Leonpo Gang East | 2005 S Slope-N Face

A USA expedition to Leonpo Gang East in 2005 via S Slope-N Face, led by Becky Harrison. Summit reached on 3rd November 2005. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 5136
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LEOE05301
Peak ID LEOE
Year 2005
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Slope-N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Becky Harrison
Sponsor 50th Anniversary Women's Himalayan Expedition to Gyalgen Peak
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Japan
Approach Jalire->Kottike->Goltegaon->Ghumthang->Tempathang->Ladan Besi
Basecamp Date 2005-10-26
Summit Date 2005-11-03
Summit Time -
Summit Days 8
Total Days 10
Termination Date 2005-11-05
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 5872m due to very difficult terrains, lack of time, and the peak was too far away
High Point (m) 5872
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 235
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(26/10,3583m),C1(30/10,4205),C2(31/10,4736m),C3(02/11,5262m),xxx(03/11,5872m)
Route Notes When Desimone, Kizaki, Pasang Sherpa, Mingma Sherpa, Gyalgu Sherpa and Gelu Sherpa reached C3, the climbers found that Gyalgen Peak was too far away from the camp. Then they decided to go up to a higher point to look at Gyalgen. The climbers and four Sherpas climbed the West Ridge of Jugal Himal (5872m). Both Harrisons stayed at BC and did not go beyond BC. The team returned to Kathmandu on Nov 10 and will leave on different dates. Leader leaves on Dec 01. One of the members of the 1955 Gyalgen Peak Expedition Mrs Evelyn Camrass McNicol, who was trekking member of 2005 Gyalgen expedition, said that their Gyalgen peak is wrongly placed on the HMG (Finn) map. The place where map shows Lampogan West is actually the Gyalgen Peak which was climbed/summited by the 1955 expedition. Mrs. Camrass indicated the 1955 route on map while she was visiting Miss Hawley. BC at top edge of dense forest and just before icefalls starts (bad icefalls) on south slope. C1 at level spot in between icefalls. C2 at level section between icefalls. C3 at top of series of icefalls. High point at around from which to gain view of their mountain high point was southwest of C3. Sherpas who reached high point: Pasang Sherpa, Patle-6, Okhaldhunga, 19/2/78 Mingma Norbu Sherpa, Lokhim-8, Solu, 3/12/67 Gyalju Sherpa, Taksindu-6, Solu, 3/12/63 Pasang Gelu Sherpa, Lokhim-9, Solu, 17/1/79 Gyalgen Peak Itinerary Dates: Oct 12 - Nov 15, 2005 Oct 12 - Arrive in Kathmadu Oct 13-17 - Last minute arrangements for departure Load bus and depart for village of Jalbire, which is situated on the Balephi Khola. Walk for an hour outside of town and camp. Oct 18-21 - Follow the Balephi Khola until reaching the village of Tempathang. Oct 22 - After Tempathang the Balephi Khola gorge narrows until we reach a fork in the river. The river heading north drains glaciers from the Langtang Himal and the other river running from the east is draining run off from Dorje Lhakpa's glacier and Phurbi Chyachu. We'll camp here for the night. Oct 23 - Rest day. Today we'll take a day off to wash clothing and to check our food stores. Oct 24 - The Eastern fork will take us to our objective. We'll pass a side river running off of Dorje Lhakpa glacier and Phurbi Chhyachu will be visible straight ahead. Today will take us to 3500m with forests of beautiful pines and open meadows. We'll be camping for the night in a kharka with huts and other enclosures for our staff. Oct 25 - Today we'll hike further up the valley and will arrive at our base camp just in front of scouting out options for getting onto the glacier. Oct 26 - We'll spend today moving gear to our advanced base camp and fixing ropes if needed for the start of our climb tomorrow. Oct 27 - Early morning we'll start to ascend the glacier setting up camp I. If everything goes well we'll stay up at camp I. This might also be the last time for a few days that we see the trekkers in our group. Once we have everything we need hauled onto the glacier we'll have the staff move everything from ABC to BC. Oct 28-Nov 4 - On glacier, will try to summit Gyalgen Peak and then head back down. Trekkers can take day hikes or take staff and visit Panch Pokhari. If trekking group leaves area they need to be back to base camp by Nov 3, in case we finish our climb early. Nov 5 - Return to BC. Nov 6-8 - If all went well on Gyalgen Peak and we feel up to it, we'll try to climb a 5800m peak that isn't named that sits next to Phurbi Chhyachu peak. Nov 9-13 - Head down the valley back to Tempathang.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Karnana Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2456358
Year 2005
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s slope-n face

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Grant Desimone M 1983 USA Climber Greenwich, Connecticut Documentary film maker Details Other expeditions
Becky Harrison F 1957 USA Leader Bartlett, New Hampshire Owner of company organizing treks and guide Details Other expeditions
Craig Harrison M 1962 USA Climber Bartlett, New Hampshire Graphic designer Details Other expeditions
Norie Kizaki F 1974 Japan Climber Bartlett, New Hampshire Graphic designer Details Other expeditions
Pasang Sherpa M 1978 Nepal H-A Worker Patle, Okhaldhunga - Details Other expeditions
Mingma Norbu Sherpa M 1967 Nepal H-A Worker Lokhim-8, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Gyalju Sherpa M 1963 Nepal H-A Worker Hewa, Taksindu-6, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Gelu Sherpa M 1979 Nepal H-A Worker Lokhim, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LEOE05301 - Jackson, Monica & Stark, Elizabeth Tents in the Clouds Collins, London - J13
LEOE05301 AAJ Harrison, Becky - - 80:410 (2006) -
LEOE05301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200641002/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-Himal-Jugal-Himal-Gyalzen-Attempt-and-Map-Identity - - -