Lachama Chuli | 1983 SW Ridge

A Japan expedition to Lachama Chuli in 1983 via SW Ridge, led by Kyoko Endo. Summit reached on 28th May 1983. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1531
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LCHA83101
Peak ID LCHA
Year 1983
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Kyoko Endo
Sponsor Nepal-Japan Women's Joint Exp to Mt. Changla (Jungfrau AC)
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1983-05-06
Summit Date 1983-05-28
Summit Time -
Summit Days 22
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6300m due to difficult climb on snow ridge
High Point (m) 6300
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(06/05,4300m),C1(09/05,4900m),C2(15/05,5400m),C3(19/05,6000m),C4(27/05,6200m),xxx(28/05,6300m)
Route Notes Very difficult climb on snow ridge: very sharp with hidden crevasses and cornices, sometimes ice face. Also 3 members became sick of hepatitis and so with escort, 4 left early depleting forces and one really strong Sherpa. Then at 6300m no more fixed rope left and Sherpas refused to climb without it. Fuel also finished and season almost finished. SW Ridge = border - S(E) and N Ridges look easier, but S(E) Ridge is in China and N Ridge too difficult to get out to, so climbed via SW Ridge. 10 Nov 1998 - Japanese Changla and Kanti Himal expeditions: Autumn 1998 climbing leader Tamotsu Onishi: 1983 Japanese attempt on Changla was via W Ridge to S Peak about 6700m which is actually highest peak of Changla and is on border with Tibet and is south of official main peak 6563m. Three of the 5 Sherpas, including one woman, have been designated as the expedition's Nepalese members.
Accidents Only 3 hepatitis cases
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448141
Year 1983
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Hiroko Bando F 1957 Japan Climber Kyoto, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Kyoko Endo F 1938 Japan Leader Otsu, Shiga, Japan Chemist Details Other expeditions
Tokiko Koyama F 1951 Japan Deputy Leader Nagaokakyo, Hyoto, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Sanae Kusamoto F 1947 Japan Climber Kobe, Hyogo, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Fumie Miyagawa F 1938 Japan BC Manager Kyoto, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Hisanobu Shimizu M 1954 Japan Exp Doctor Kyoto, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Masako Uchida F 1941 Japan Deputy Leader Kyoto, Japan Manager of bookshop Details Other expeditions
Tomiko Yamashita F 1954 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Totsuo Kajihara M 1942 Japan Photographer Tokyo, Japan Cameraman Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LCHA83101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 58:262 (1984) -
LCHA83101 JAC Endo, Kyoko Attempt on Changla by the Southwest Ridge - 79:14-16 (1984) -
LCHA83101 JAC Endo, Kyoko Attempt on Changla by the Southwest Ridge - 79:51-59 (1984) -
LCHA83101 IWA - - - 105:203 (1984) -
LCHA83101 IWA - - - 105:48 (1984) -
LCHA83101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198426203/Asia-Nepal-Changla-Attempt - - -