Larkya Peak | 2017 SE Face

A Ecuador expedition to Larkya Peak in 2017 via SE Face, led by Topo Mena. Summit reached on 19th October 2017. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 9680
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LARK17302
Peak ID LARK
Year 2017
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Ecuador
Leaders Topo Mena
Sponsor Ecuadorian Larkya Peak Expedition 2017
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 2nd official
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Helicopter to Dharamsala, trekked via Syanche Glacier to base of SE Face
Basecamp Date 2017-10-12
Summit Date 2017-10-19
Summit Time 1430
Summit Days 7
Total Days 10
Termination Date 2017-10-22
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6416
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 100
Total Members 3
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(12/10,4480m),ABC(14/10,5700m),C1(18/10,6100m),Smt(19/10)
Route Notes BC 12/10 4480m at Dharamsala (on Manaslu Trek) ABC 14/10 5700m at base of SE Face C1 18/10 6100m at middle of face on a small ledge. Smt 19/10 by Mena, Morales, Navarrete at 2:30 pm. Details of climb : 13/10 via the Syanche-Glacier to camp near NW Face of Manaslu North 14/10 to ABC at base of SE Face at 5700m 15/10 stayed at camp waiting for better weather 16/11 fixed rope first 100m of face 17/10 rest day 18/10 climb from base (5700m) to bivouac in middle of face (6100m) 19/10 summit and descend to ABC 20/10 waited for better weather 21/10 trek to Dharamsala Team arrived in Dharamsala (BC) by helicopter on 12 Oct. On 18 Oct they slept on a little ledge in the middle of the wall (approximately at 6100m). Left 4 bolts, 4 pitons and all anchors on the wall. Climbing the entire face required 17 pitches, they rated it with 5.11r and C2 on clean scale; UIAA: 7, French: 6c (whole face 700m). Head wall from 6200m until 6400m was crux section. Very poor rock quality at headwall, very lose rock. Beautiful climbing at lower part of face, good rock quality. On summit day they started at 5 am, got to top at 2:30 pm. Stayed on top for maybe 30 minutes, weather was perfect. Snowy summit, cornices. Then abseiled down the whole face in 5-6 hours. No serious rockfall. Team left BC on 22 Oct. On the way out they trekked to Dharapani via the Larkya La, then by Jeep to KTM. Climbing route: SE Face, slightly to the right of Georgian 1st ascent route. Oxygen use: not taken not used. Fixed rope: 100m (first 100m, at base of mountain).
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Cho Oyu Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2463663
Year 2017
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se face

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Esteban Patricio (Topo) Mena Yanez M 1989 Ecuador Leader Guayacan, Ecuador Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Roberto Jose Morales Morales M 1989 Ecuador Climber Quito, Ecuador Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Nicolas Navarrete M 1987 Ecuador Climber Quito, Ecuador Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LARK17302 AAJ Mena, Esteban Larkya Peak, Southeast Face, Directa Ecuatoriana - 92:317-318 (2018) -
LARK17302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214647/Larkya-Peak-Larkya-Main-Southeast-Face-Directa-Ecuatoriana - - -