Larkya Peak | 2017 SE Face

A Georgia expedition to Larkya Peak in 2017 via SE Face, led by Gia Tortladze. Summit reached on 27th September 2017. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field	Value
ID	9679
Imported	2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID	LARK17301
Peak ID	LARK
Year	2017
Season	3
Host Country	1
Route 1	SE Face
Route 2	-
Route 3	-
Route 4	-
Nationality	Georgia
Leaders	Gia Tortladze
Sponsor	Georgian Larkya Lha Expedition
Success 1	True
Success 2	False
Success 3	False
Success 4	False
Ascent 1	1st offical
Ascent 2	-
Ascent 3	-
Ascent 4	-
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Countries	-
Approach	-
Basecamp Date	2017-09-16
Summit Date	2017-09-27
Summit Time	2012
Summit Days	11
Total Days	14
Termination Date	2017-09-30
Termination Reason	1
Termination Notes	-
High Point (m)	6416
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Camps	5
Fixed Rope (m)	0
Total Members	4
Summit Members	3
Member Deaths	0
Total Hired	0
Summit Hired	0
Hired Deaths	0
No Hired	True
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Taken	False
O2 Unknown	False
Other Summits	-
Campsites	BC(16/09,4550m),ABC(17/09,4700m),C1(18/09,5200m),C2(19/09,5600m),Biv3(23/09,5800m),Biv4(24/09,6050m),Biv5(26/09,6200m),Smt(27/09)
Route Notes	BC 16/09 4550m ABC 17/09 4700m C1 18/09 5200m C2 19-22/09 5600m (at foot of the wall) Biv3 23/09 5800m Biv4 24-25,27/09 6050m Biv5 26/09 6200m Smt 27/09 by all 3 members at 8 pm. Members : Archil Badriashvili, Bakar Gelashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze (summit), Gia Tortladze (stopped the climb on 17/09, short after ABC because too much objective risk) 20 Sept: reached the base of the SE face (C2) after a delicate glacier approach. 21 Sept: bad weather, waiting at C2. 22 Sept: team climbed first 3 pitches up to M4. Slept at C2. 23 Sept: climbed 1 more mixed pitch. had took all necessary gear up to install Bivy 3 on their platform. 24 Sept: Archil climbed 4 pitches more and stopped at 6050m, hauling equipment till 3 am, then sleeping on their platform under an overhang (Bivy 4). 25 Sept: Giorgi and Bakar traversed to the right and climbed directly towards the crux starting from 6070m. Crux being a loose belt of rock climbed straight, including a 6a crack system and in the end AI4 pitch. Climbed 40 meters for 5 hours that day. Slept at Bivy 4. 26 Sept: Archil climbed three rope-lengths through overhanging sections. Weather improving. In the stayed all 3 in their two-man single tent on a small ledge. 27 Sept: Giorgi led three very difficult pitches though cracks and frozen sections. At around 20:00 all 3 stood on the summit of Larkya Peak. Slept at Bivy 4 that night. 28 Sept: after a day rest, in the evening team started again its descent through the night. 29 Sept: reached C2 in the morning, where team rested for a few hours. Then reached BC. 30 Sept: left BC for Samdo. Georgian route: 6A/ED1/6a or 5.10b/M5/A4/80°. 1700m from ABC, 700m SE face (15 pitches plus summit ridge). Team left BC on 30 of Sept. Oxygen: Not taken, not used. Records: 1st ascent of the peak, 1st ascent of the SE Face.
Accidents	-
Achievement	1st ascent of Larkya Peak
Agency	Asian Trekking
Commercial Route	False
Standard Route	False
Primary Route	False
Primary Member	False
Primary Reference	False
Primary ID	-
Checksum	2463641
Year	2017
Summit Success	True
O2 Summary	None
Route (lowercase)	se face

Members

Field	Value
ID	70686
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LARK17301
Member ID	01
Peak ID	LARK
Year	2017
Season	3
First Name	Gia
Last Name	Tortladze
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1960
Calculated Age	57
Citizenship	Georgia
Status	Leader
Residence	Tbilisi, Georgia
Occupation	Archeologist
Leader	True
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	True
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	False
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	4700
Summit Date 1	2017-09-17
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	12
HCN	0
Checksum	2435069
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	gia tortladze
Year of Birth	1960
Year	2017
Age at Expedition	57
Role	Leader

Field	Value
ID	70687
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LARK17301
Member ID	02
Peak ID	LARK
Year	2017
Season	3
First Name	Archil
Last Name	Badriashvili
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	-
Calculated Age	0
Citizenship	Georgia
Status	Climber
Residence	-
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	False
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6416
Summit Date 1	2017-09-27
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	2012
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	1
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	-146
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	archil badriashvili
Year of Birth	-
Year	2017
Age at Expedition	-
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	70688
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LARK17301
Member ID	03
Peak ID	LARK
Year	2017
Season	3
First Name	Bakari
Last Name	Gelashvili
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1986
Calculated Age	31
Citizenship	Georgia
Status	Climber
Residence	Borjomi, Georgia
Occupation	Rescue guide
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	False
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6416
Summit Date 1	2017-09-27
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	2012
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	1
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2444404
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	bakari gelashvili
Year of Birth	1986
Year	2017
Age at Expedition	31
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	70689
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	LARK17301
Member ID	04
Peak ID	LARK
Year	2017
Season	3
First Name	Giorgi
Last Name	Tepnadze
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1989
Calculated Age	28
Citizenship	Georgia
Status	Climber
Residence	Tbilisi, Georgia
Occupation	Alpine guide
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	False
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6416
Summit Date 1	2017-09-27
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	2012
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	1
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2445630
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	giorgi tepnadze
Year of Birth	1989
Year	2017
Age at Expedition	28
Role	Member

4 recorded members.

Name	Sex	Year of Birth	Citizenship	Status	Residence	Occupation
Gia Tortladze	M	1960	Georgia	Leader	Tbilisi, Georgia	Archeologist	Details Other expeditions
Archil Badriashvili	M	-	Georgia	Climber	-	-	Details Other expeditions
Bakari Gelashvili	M	1986	Georgia	Climber	Borjomi, Georgia	Rescue guide	Details Other expeditions
Giorgi Tepnadze	M	1989	Georgia	Climber	Tbilisi, Georgia	Alpine guide	Details Other expeditions

References

Field	Value
ID	10192
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	LARK17301
Reference ID	01
Year	2017
Type	5
Journal	-
Author	-
Title	https://www.facebook.com/AsianTrekking
Publisher	-
Publication Date	-
Language	-
Citation	-
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	10374
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	LARK17301
Reference ID	02
Year	2017
Type	5
Journal	-
Author	-
Title	http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/larkya-main-georgians-claim-first-ascent-in-himalaya.html
Publisher	-
Publication Date	-
Language	-
Citation	-
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	10880
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	LARK17301
Reference ID	03
Year	2017
Type	2
Journal	HCN
Author	Planet Mountain
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	2018
Language	-
Citation	37:41-42 (Feb 2018)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	14195
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	LARK17301
Reference ID	04
Year	2017
Type	2
Journal	AAJ
Author	Badriashvili, Archil
Title	Larkya Peak, First Ascent by Southeast Face
Publisher	-
Publication Date	2018
Language	-
Citation	92:316-317 (2018)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	14234
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	LARK17301
Reference ID	05
Year	2017
Type	5
Journal	-
Author	-
Title	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214646/Larkya-Peak-Larkya-Main-First-Ascent-by-Southeast-Face
Publisher	-
Publication Date	-
Language	-
Citation	-
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID	Journal	Author	Title	Publisher	Citation	Yak 94
LARK17301	-	-	https://www.facebook.com/AsianTrekking	-	-	-
LARK17301	-	-	http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/larkya-main-georgians-claim-first-ascent-in-himalaya.html	-	-	-
LARK17301	HCN	Planet Mountain	-	-	37:41-42 (Feb 2018)	-
LARK17301	AAJ	Badriashvili, Archil	Larkya Peak, First Ascent by Southeast Face	-	92:316-317 (2018)	-
LARK17301	-	-	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214646/Larkya-Peak-Larkya-Main-First-Ascent-by-Southeast-Face	-	-	-