Lamjung Himal | 1974 E Ridge

A Japan expedition to Lamjung Himal in 1974 via E Ridge, led by Yoichi Yamakura. Summit reached on 20th October 1974. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2311
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID LAMJ74301
Peak ID LAMJ
Year 1974
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Yoichi Yamakura
Sponsor Himalayan Alpine Assoc of Japan Himalayan Expedition 1974
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 4th,5th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1974-09-15
Summit Date 1974-10-20
Summit Time 1530
Summit Days 35
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6983
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(15/09,4200m),Dep(25/09,4400m),C1(26/09,5000m),C2(06/10,5400m),C3(17/10,5850m),C4(20/10,6050m),Smt(20-21/10)
Route Notes Yamakura - 5 Nov 74 1st summit on 20 Oct 2nd summit on 21 Oct and Lobsang Tshering Sherpa. Many steep narrow ridges; climbed from East Ridge. From BC to C4 very difficult, after that easy C4 at 6050m, a temporary camp made on 20th by other 2 other members (20th summiters slept C3). 20th summiters reached top 3:30 pm. 21st summiters slept C4 20th night and reached to 11:00 am and slept in C4. 3 members and 1 Sherpa avalanche 19 Sept Osaki, Uetake, leader and Lhakpa Norbu about 4700m and radio news had reported 5 Sherpas killed on Everest (1 related to 1 Lamjung Sherpa). After avalanche, changed route to icefall and Sherpas scared of difficulty this route. So 3 "very nervous" Sherpas left expedition 24 Sept am. We worked 10 hrs/day they worked 3 hrs/day; they carried 10 kg, we carried 30 kg; after they left sometimes we worked 12 hrs/day. Singh RSS - 25 Oct 74 17 Oct Kikuchi and Uetaka 21 Oct Osaki, Dr. Abe and Sherpa Lobsang Tenzing Nepal and Japanese flags MP Khanal - 21 Oct 74 C3 17 Oct 5840m climbing from SE Face. MP Khanal - 29 Sept 74 14,500 ft dump camp at 4400m; date not given (message from 27 Sept) Had problem with Sherpas; 3 Sherpas returned to KTM Only sirdar left (+kitchen boys, etc) Lamjung West Peak Climbed in 1955 autumn by West Germans under Heinz Steinmetz (17 Oct by Steinmetz and Juergen Wellenkamp). Dr Abe - 29 Aug 74 4 arrived 27 Aug. Leave KTM about 5 Sept by road; leave Pokhara about 7 Sept; arrive BC about 14 Sept. Route cannot say now; perhaps British route, perhaps another; = must reach it and see it; have few photos or information of south side; had intended to climb from north. Osaki through advisor - 9 August 74 Osaki and Sasaki arrive 2 Aug. Others stayed in Japan until permit clarified; come to KTM after 25th maybe. Expedition leaves KTM end of Aug to Pokhara; at Pokhara same days and then caravan: Siklis, Madi Khola. Original plan to climb Lamjung from North Ridge; now north prohibited so now from southern side. Route: prefer some route different from British. Had planned 4 camps above BC from north. 4 Sherpas including sirdar.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2444945
Year 1974
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e ridge

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Yoichi Yamakura M 1930 Japan Leader Fukushima, Japan Head official of Fukushima branch of Japan Scholarship Society Details Other expeditions
Masanabu Osaki M 1939 Japan Deputy Leader Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Geology teacher at Sapporo Korean Girls Institutional High School Details Other expeditions
Tadashi Sasaki M 1941 Japan Climber Morioka, Iwate, Japan Architect for Sasaki Building Trades Details Other expeditions
Kaoru Kikuchi M 1946 Japan Climber Fukushima, Japan Surveyor of Kam'me Survey and Plan Details Other expeditions
Kiyotaka Uetake M 1938 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Engineer of Kisei Hydraulic Machinery Co. Details Other expeditions
Yasuo Abe M 1938 Japan Climber Matsumoto, Nagano, Japan Physician, pediatrics at Shinsyu University Medical School Details Other expeditions
Lobsang Tshering Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
LAMJ74301 AAJ Guha, Kamal K. - - 49:200 (1975) -
LAMJ74301 MM - - - 41:11 (Jan 1975) -
LAMJ74301 IWA - - - 42:33-34 (1975) -
LAMJ74301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197520003/Asia-Nepal-Lamjung-Himal - - -