Kyungka Ri 1 | 2017 SW Face-NW Ridge

A S Korea expedition to Kyungka Ri 1 in 2017 via SW Face-NW Ridge, led by Yeon Heon-Mo. Summit reached on 15th October 2017. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 9678
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KYR117301
Peak ID KYR1
Year 2017
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality S Korea
Leaders Yeon Heon-Mo
Sponsor South Korean Kyungka Ri I Expedition 2017
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Syabrubesi->Kyanjin Gompa->Langsisha Karka->BC via Shalbachum Glacier
Basecamp Date 2017-10-11
Summit Date 2017-10-15
Summit Time 1000
Summit Days 4
Total Days 7
Termination Date 2017-10-18
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6599
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(11/10,4700m),C1(13/10,5300m),C2(14/10,5700m),Smt(15/10)
Route Notes BC 11/10 4700m C1 13/10 5300m C2 14/10 5700m Smt 15/10 by Oh Min-Young, Han Sang-Hum, Dawa Nurbu, Pasang Nurbu at 10-10:30 am. First ascent of Kyungka Ri via SW Face, last part of the route to the summit on Northwest Ridge. Team was well prepared and gathered a lot of details about the climb beforehand. There were some technical parts to be climbed, but in general, the route was straightforward. Up to C1 only trekking, from C1 to summit they fixed ropes. BC was established at approx. 4700m on the Shalbachum Glacier. On 12 Oct members had a rest day at BC, two Sherpas Dawa Nurbu and Pasang Nurbu established C1 at 5300m. On 13 Oct team started their walk from BC to C1 at 8 am, they moved on the western side of the glacier and crossed it at the head of the valley. That day they reached C1 at 3 pm. Next day at 8 am 5 members continued the climb to C2, which they reached at 2:10 pm. C2 was established below a rocky wall at approximately 5700m. On summit day team started at 3 am. Weather and conditions were generally good. They had to cross a large crevasse at approximately 6200m which was 20m in length and 10m in depth, they abseiled into the crevasse and climbed up the other side. Shortly after the crevasse, they gained the NW Ridge, which they followed to the summit. All 4 climbers summitted between 10-10:30 am. They stayed on the summit for 30 minutes. Pasang Nurbu and Han Sang-Hum descended to C1, which they reached at 5 pm. Dawa Nurbu and Oh Min-Young descended to C2. Everyone was back at BC on 16 Oct. Team left BC on 18 Oct. Other members never aimed for the summit, they solely supported summit team. Members name the route Dae Jeon Alpine Federation (DAF 50) Route, in respect of the 50th anniversary of Dae Jeon Alpine Federation. Oxygen: Not taken, not used. Fixed rope: from C1 to summit. Members : Oh Chi-Whan (high point: C1) Han Sang-Hum (S) Oh Min-Young (S) Yang Han-Mo (high point: C1) Byeon Jun-Ki (high point: C2) Yeon Heon-Mo (high point: C1) Hired : Sange Furi Sherpa, 24/11/1970 (high point: C1) Pasang Nurbu Sherpa, 28/05/1990 Dawa Nurbu Sherpa, 24/02/1998
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Seven Summit Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2463659
Year 2017
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw face-nw ridge

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Heon-Mo Yeon M 1963 S Korea Leader Seoul, S Korea - Details Other expeditions
Jun-Ki Byeon M 1978 S Korea Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Sang-Hum Han M 1980 S Korea Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Chi-Whan Oh M 1968 S Korea Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Min-Young Oh M 1968 S Korea Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Han-Mo Yang M 1968 S Korea Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Dawa Nurbu Sherpa M 1998 Nepal H-A Worker Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Nurbu Sherpa M 1990 Nepal H-A Worker Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Sangay Phuri (Sangay Furi) Sherpa M 1970 Nepal H-A Worker Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KYR117301 - - http://www.sevensummittreks.com/blog_details/249/kyungka-ri-1 - - -
KYR117301 AAJ Griffin, Lindsay Kyungka Ri, Southwest Face and Northwest Ridge - 92:324 (2018) -
KYR117301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214648/Kyungka-Ri-Southwest-Face-and-Northwest-Ridge-Attempts-and-Ascent - - -