Kyazo Ri | 2002 SE Ridge (to 5600m)

A France expedition to Kyazo Ri in 2002 via SE Ridge (to 5600m), led by Duncan Wilson. Summit reached on 20th October 2002. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4195
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KYAZ02301
Peak ID KYAZ
Year 2002
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge (to 5600m)
Route 2 SW Ridge (to summit)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Duncan Wilson
Sponsor Kyazo Ri expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 True
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 1st
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries UK
Approach Lukla->Dole->Machhermo
Basecamp Date 2002-10-13
Summit Date 2002-10-20
Summit Time 1400
Summit Days 7
Total Days 9
Termination Date 2002-10-22
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6151
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(10/10,4645m),C1(14/10,5540m),C2(18/10,5560m),Smt(20/10)
Route Notes BC at 4645m at west end of valley running west from Machhermo C1 at 5240m foot of East Face C2 at 5560m start of SE Ridge. 19 Oct all 5 members left C2 at 7:00 am for summit bid via SE Ridge but technical rock climbing made progress slow and at 10:00 were only at 5600m. Much too late to get to top and return safely, so abandoned this route and back to C2 at 5:00 am, then Marche and Wilson set out alone for top via Kyazo Glacier and northwest from the Glacier via small valley to the SW Ridge and up ridge to top at 2:00 pm in perfect weather. SW Ridge was a snow ridge separating NE and South Faces, needed 2 ice axes to progress, steepness averaged 55 degrees, techically not very hard. Left top at 3:00 pm and back to C2 9:00 pm and climb finished. 21 Oct to BC. Routh Description (right and left are relative to direction of progress) BC to C1: Follow valley floor west then grassy spur (cairns) which leads steeply to the rock and snow covered plateau (5030m) that rises more gently towards Machhermo Glacier to the north. From the edge of plateau, follow more cairns northwest and established C1 in a shallow hollow near the highest point of the plateau before it heads slightly down towards Machhermo Glacier. A melt-water stream can be found by heading downhill in a NE direction for around 200m. The site is close to avalanche and serac falls from the hanging glacier on the East Face of Kyazo Ri, but appears to be out of any direct danger. C1 to C2: Retrace the last 20m of the route from BC in order to skirt below the avalanche and serac exposed zone below the hanging glacier on the East Face of Kyazo Ri. Head back up hill to the west and attain the base of a 50m high rock band on its right-hand edge. The rock band gives access to the foot of a glacier that rises to the south. Climb the rock band about 50m to the right of an obvious ice couloir. The easiest route zigzags through the rock in an overall right to left movement in two short pitches, making use of ledges and gently inclined corners. Sufficient protection is possible in rock cracks and around blocks. Climb the glacier to above the rimaye [moat], initially by the rock covered right-hand edge, later by the middle in order to avoid wide crevasses, crossing the occaasional snow bridge. Aim for the foot of the mixed faced above the glacier that gives access to the col at 5550m defining the foot of the SE Ridge of Kyazo Ri. The right-hand side of the face (giving the most direct access to the col) is vertical and very compact. The route used begins some 120m to the left of the point closest to the col. A steep initial 15m up a slabby corner (difficult in poor snow conditions) leads to a gently rising terrace system that gives access over progressively easier terrain to the col. The whole traverse can be done in 2 long pitches of around 70m each. A good piton belay is possible atop a large boulder in the middle of the traverse. Access to the boulder is problematic, and best made on its right hand edge on poor rock. Pitons and friends are essential to properly protect this traverse. From the col, make slightly descending traverse on verglaced rocks on the west side of the col in a northwest direction to attain the edge of the highest serac of a small dying glacier. With care, and given favourable snow and serac conditions, the flat top of this serac can provide a comfortable campsite, relatively protected from the considerable rock fall occuring during the day on the South Face of Kyazo Ri. C2 to Summit The easiest passage from C2 to the summit begins by descending southwest to the huge flat Kyazo Glacier, by the snow and boulder slopes just to the left of C2 glacier. Once on Kyazo Glacier, head northwest and follow the rock-covered north edge of the glacier to the bottom of the ravine that separates Kyazo Ri from point 5925, and leads to the glacial col at 5700m marking the beginning of the SW Ridge. Climb the ravine easily, keeping left to avoid potential serac fall, to the snow slopes of the col. From here the route is mostly on snow and ice. From the col the SW Ridge rises at an average 50 degrees in a fairly smooth sweep to the summit. Most of the remaining route is not visible. Follow the ridge northeast, keeping mostly on the crest, passing through some steeper sections caused by contrictions between rocky outcrops. Rock belays are possible on the right every 50m to 100m, but on the first ascent the climbers moved together, using the occasional Deadman for protection. Much of the route is exposed to serac fall from small seracs lying very high on the ridge. Debris on the col is witness to this. The last section of the ridge (from 6100m) becomes somewhat steeper and sharper, and the climbing is more delicate with rocks a few inches below the surface. A significant rock outcrop defines the right hand edge of the ridge a this age. Traverse right to the rock, at the level of an obvious ledge, some 20m above the lowest point. The summit is now reached in three long pitches. Traverse the outcrop to the right using the ledge and climb the moderately inclined snow slope on the right hand edge of the rock. The rock provides ample opportunity for good gear placements steeply to skirt the right-hand edge of the top of the rock outcrop then once above the rocks gain the left-hand arete defining the snow couloir that opens above and leads to the summit edge. Follow the arete which merges into the summit slopes and continue to the summit ridge and summit shortly afterwards. The summit is a narrow (40cm) ridge of snow separating the steep rocky S Face from the very steep mixed NE Face. It provides a fantastic view of all the Khumbu summits, many of which it dominates, being the highest point in the Kyazo Ri massif. Descent from Summit to C2: It is possible to retrace the same route used to climb to the summit. However, a shortcut can be made to avoid the ravine, and the long climb back up from Kyazo Glacier to C2. The shortcut involves a 50m abseil from the south side of the rocks that define the south edge of the snowy SW Ridge used for the ascent. Head for the last rock platform on the left of the SW Ridge, some 150m above the 5700m col. Traverse a steepening boulder covered slope in an easterly direction as far as reasonably possible, in order to reduce the necessary abseil distance to the glacier below. Abseil down the mostly overhanging rock wall below to gain the glacier below. Traverse the glacier at the same towards the southease and descend a gentle snow then rocky slope in the same direction until the top of steepening rock slabs. Head of the SW and descend a couple of steep steps. Contour the buttress below by a descending traverse to the right (some cairns) then to the left as soon as the terrain permits. Reach a shoulder from which the long traverse east to C2 is now completely visible. Traverse to C2 keeping more or less at the same altitude. Descent from C2 to C1: Regain the 5550m col. Descend to the glacier to the northeast of the col in two 50m abseils, using the rocks to the right of the snow couloir for the second belay. Retrace the route to the top of the first rock band at the foot of the glacier. In one 50m abseil at its left edge regain the foot of the rocks and the end of the technical difficulties.
Accidents -
Achievement 1st ascent
Agency Khumbi-ila Mt. & Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2455200
Year 2002
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se ridge (to 5600m)

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Laurent Beurel M 1974 France Climber Lyon, Rhone, France Engineer Details Other expeditions
Julien Ferrera M 1975 France Climber Paris, France Car salesman Details Other expeditions
Vincent Marche M 1973 France Climber Ozoir-la-Ferriere, Seine-et-Marne, France Director of factory automation equipment manufacturing company Details Other expeditions
Veronique Marche-Wilson M 1971 France Exp Doctor Paris, France Physician Details Other expeditions
Duncan Wilson M 1971 UK Leader Paris, France Management consultant Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KYAZ02301 AAJ Wilson, Duncan - - 77:394-396 (2003) -
KYAZ02301 HIGH - - - 252:58 (Nov 2003) -
KYAZ02301 AJ Wilson, Duncan Kyajo Ri, Khumbu - 108:52-56 (2003) -
KYAZ02301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200339400/Asia-Nepal-Mahalangur-Himal-Khumbu-Kyajo-Ri-First-Recorded-Ascent-of-Newly-Opened-Peak - - -
KYAZ02301 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2003_files/AJ%202003%2052-56%20Wilson%20Kyajo%20Ri.pdf - - -