Kyashar | 2012 SSE Ridge up, W Ridge down

A Japan expedition to Kyashar in 2012 via SSE Ridge up, W Ridge down, led by Yasuhiro Hanatani. Summit reached on 11th November 2012. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 7818
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KYAS12302
Peak ID KYAS
Year 2012
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SSE Ridge up, W Ridge down
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Yasuhiro Hanatani
Sponsor Kyashar Climbing team
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 2nd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lukla->Hinku Valley, north to Tangnag
Basecamp Date 2012-10-22
Summit Date 2012-11-11
Summit Time 1600
Summit Days 20
Total Days 21
Termination Date 2012-11-12
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6770
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Mera Peak
Campsites BC(22/10,4356m),Biv1(06/11,5200m),Biv2(07/11,5800m),Biv3(08/11,6100m),Biv4(09/11,6350m),Biv5(10/11,6500m)
Route Notes BC at Tangnag village lodge Biv1 at start of SSE Ridge on rock Biv2 on SSE Ridge on rock Biv3 on SSE Ridge on rock Biv4 on SSE Ridge on ice and snow Biv5 on SSE Ridge on ice and snow. The three Japanese established no fixed camps on the mountain, but bivouacked at five increasingly higher altitudes as they worked their way up the SSE Ridge to the summit. They left their last bivouac for the top on 11 November at 8:00 am and summited at 4:00 pm. They had climbed two pitches on rock at a small traverse, then two pitches on ice, and the fifth and final pitch a walk up a snow field to the summit. They then descended the West Ridge of snow and ice to a bivouac at 6250m, where they arrived at 9:00 pm, four hours after nightfall, "pretty tired," Hanatani said. The next day, 12 November, they left their final bivouac rather late, at 9:00 am, and descended all the way to the lodge at Tangnag village, which they had made their BC. They arrived at Tangnag at about 9:30 pm after another very long day. There had been three of four incidents of rockfall, which hurt no one. Hanatani described the climb as the best he'd ever had. The three members friendship had lasted for the entire long route of 40 pitches, 2400 meters surmounted from Tangnag to the summit on rock, snow and ice up a "beautiful line" in sunshine every day.
Accidents Aoki hit by falling rock on 7 Nov at 5800m or 5900m
Achievement -
Agency Cosmo Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2458885
Year 2012
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sse ridge up, w ridge down

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Tatsuya Aoki M 1984 Japan Climber Moriya, Ibaraki, Japan Climbing gym manager Details Other expeditions
Yasuhiro Hanatani M 1976 Japan Leader Takane, Hokuto, Yamanashi, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Hiroyoshi Manome M 1969 Japan Climber Matsumoto, Nagano, Japan Forester Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KYAS12302 JAN Hanatani, Yasuhiro Nima Line: The First Ascent of South Pillar of Kyashar - 14:53-56 (2013) -
KYAS12302 AAJ - - - 87:333-335 (2013) -
KYAS12302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212251/Kyashar-6770m-south-pillar-Nima-Line - - -
KYAS12302 - - http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web13w/newswire-japanese-kyashar-south-pillar - - -