Kyashar | 2011

A France expedition to Kyashar in 2011, led by Mathieu Detrie. Summit reached on 25th October 2011. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 7740
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KYAS11301
Peak ID KYAS
Year 2011
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 -
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Mathieu Detrie
Sponsor French Kyashar Peak Expedition 2011
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lukla->Kyashar BC
Basecamp Date -
Summit Date 2011-10-25
Summit Time -
Summit Days 0
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 7
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6350m due to illness of one member
High Point (m) 6350
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(5150m),Biv1(23/10),Biv2(24/10),Biv3(25/10,6350m),xxx
Route Notes Google translation of French web site story: Objective Kyashar 6770m. We arrived, Detrie Mathieu, Pierre Labbre and myself, flew to Lukla, the bottom of Khumbu, October 1. Then four days of walking in the direction of Kyashar, 6770m, we have seen that photo yet. This is a beautiful pyramid located just in front of Mera Peak, the summit of 6000m experienced trekkers. It installs the base camp at the foot of the mountain at 4300m and luckily right next to a village, which will prove decisive for subsequent charging of PCs that allows us to watch movies during the long days of waiting. One day after arriving in BC, I get sick and am not really good for a week. After a few days we are ready to begin the acclimatization, then share it to Kusum Kanguru, 6400m, all three with Chandra, our Nepalese guide. It is trekking guide but would like to become a mountain guide, it seems interesting to come with us, it will not be disappointed! Left a little too late, floundering in the soft snow to 5500m altitude: it is very hot right now and not refrozen nya almost overnight. In addition, we thought to open a small path that leads to an easy and neck to reach the end of the normal route. It was trying too hard to trust the Nepalese map at 1/100, 000th: Pass actually leads to a steep gap topped several hundred meters of steep rocks, a small big wall actually ... Not spiteful, Chandra says he learned a lot while walking in the midst of crevasses. We acclimated a bit: two nights at 5500m. Back to CB, we see many groups go down again victorious Mera peak. Some participants did not really air sports are very old, so we said we will be more likely here than Kusum. We made the summit in three days in the normal way (walk) which allows us to sleep at almost 6000m of climbing and 6470m. From the top the views are stunning: it is the first time for Peter and me that we see all these peaks gigantic Kanchenjunga, Makalu, Lhotse, Everest, Nuptse, Cho Oyu. The air is clear. The only problem is that I am still sick and sometimes feverish. I do not feel in great shape. Back to CB few days to rest and then prepare business. On October 23, we left for the foot of the face. Chandra is helping us set up businesses: they will be about 20kg per person, including food and gas for 5 days in the mountains, which is not very heavy, since a large part of this material is brought to the harness. First day. 24 early, we climb the snow cone that provides access to the line that we have identified. It is a line combining mixed climbing (which seem difficult) and snowy parts. It appears that the snow is steep, often 70 degrees (according to us), which forced us to do laps throughout. Some easy slopes above the snow cone lead us to the foot of a vertical jump of three lengths of time that we pass. Then we try to reach the bivouac we spotted. It turns out that this is far and must climb 3 hours at night to get there. I start to have fever, cold I am climbing jacket in ... I really had a hard time to finish the day. Evening at the camp I am sure to turn around and go down the next day, but they take good care of me, make me to eat and can not sleep so bad after all: we managed to put the mini tent. We climbed 700m, which is not bad, we thought the camp as far. Strangely I do not feel too bad the next morning and continue. Second day. Few short lengths but difficult Pierre negotiates as a leader and we're back in the steep snow slopes difficult to protect: it is the rocks as possible to ask friends and when this is not possible, plant stakes snow. At night we find a vague location for the camp but not to the tent. We will also do more in the future. We fall asleep on our small rock platforms, not super flat, but there is no better. It did not take much height today: there were many difficult crossings, steep rock bands to bypass ... we took 200m. Third day. Mixed lengths alternate with steep snow slopes. We spent part of the afternoon in a big cloud of snow that sends us spindrifts. Evening time but becomes clear there is no bivouac location, really nothing. It stops just before dark to cut into the slope a small platform. I start to feel cold and shivering, I think I have a fever. I had never felt this sensation in the mountains and it is quite unpleasant to feel so low. The camp is not great: we sleep sitting down until the size in the tent without poles to keep warm. The night was beautifully clear and magnificent peaks around. It has also enjoyed since not much sleep. It is 6350m, 1200m we climbed since the attack and the top seems really close. We only 300m 100m and difficult snow. Fourth day. Wake up, I feel bad, vacuum energy and motivation funny feeling. Mathieu is moderately well, Peter is ok. But I can not go, I'm afraid it is too risky: No I have more confidence in the strength I have left, and the descent from the summit is complex, can not reach the top completely cooked. We agree, and it seems too committed to continue. It was therefore decided to descend a little frustrated. I team in the long descent reminders that leads to shoulder snow, and from there we descend on foot tormented by the glacier north of the mountain. The descent took us quite complex throughout the day. We're back to CB in the evening, five days after leaving. That is beautiful we climbed the rock never too bad, often very good. The difficulty is ED and supported. This is not a very obvious line, the mountain still offers besides not really. This is somewhat reminiscent of the north face of the Eiger in height and logical ascension (many crossings, little direct vertical lines). This is a great challenge on a beautiful mountain! Lukla return may have been even harder: exceptional bad weather raged on Lukla, with many days of fog, making the return to Kathmandu by air impossible. After waiting five days as the weather improves, we love and we decided to walk back: a little more than 100km and 5000m of altitude walk in a day and a half, followed by 10 hours of madness bus instead of 45 min plane ... but it's beautiful! It was a great trip, glad to have climbed together. We also learned a lot. I later learned that other people had the same thing as me, nabbed by a virus probably. It is part of the trip! Jerome Para
Accidents Jerome Para intestinal illness
Achievement -
Agency Thamserku Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2458501
Year 2011
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) -

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Mathieu Maurice Paul Detrie M 1983 France Leader Briancon, Hautes-Alpes, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jerome Alexander Benoit Para M 1981 France Climber Servoz, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Pierre Julien Labbre M 1981 France Climber Servoz, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KYAS11301 - - http://compagniedesguidesdechamonix.over-blog.com/article-kyashar-2011-ou-des-guides-de-chamonix-au-nepal-89358295.html - - -
KYAS11301 - - http://compagniedesguidesdechamonix.over-blog.com/article-histoire-de-guides-de-chamonix-au-nepal-88598749.html - - -
KYAS11301 - - http://www.chamonix-guides.com/48-guides-haute-montagne.htm - - -
KYAS11301 AAJ Griffin, Lindsay Kyashar (6,770m), South Pillar, attempt - 87:335 (2013) -
KYAS11301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212252/Kyashar-6770m-south-pillar-attempt - - -