Kyashar | 2003 W Ridge-W Face

A UK expedition to Kyashar in 2003 via W Ridge-W Face, led by Bruce Normand. Summit reached on 18th October 2003. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4497
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KYAS03301
Peak ID KYAS
Year 2003
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge-W Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Bruce Normand
Sponsor AACZ Kyashar 2003
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Austria, Canada, Switzerland
Approach Tengug up North NE
Basecamp Date 2003-10-03
Summit Date 2003-10-18
Summit Time 1600
Summit Days 15
Total Days 18
Termination Date 2003-10-21
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6770
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 100
Total Members 4
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC1(07/10,5100m),C1(06/10,5800m); BC2(17/10,5800m),Smt(18/10)
Route Notes 1st BC at 5100m at Hinku Nuptse Glacier High camp at 5800m at site of Kangtega expedition's BC on Kangtega Glacier 2nd BC on 5800m bottom of West Ridge. First went through Tangnag village east and then north up Hinku Nuptse Glacier and went to Kangtega normal BC and put camp at 5800m 6th Oct on Kangtega Glacier. Looked at North Face of col (6024m) on route to Peak 43's north side. Face of col too dangerous with mushrooms fluting, etc., so moved high camp at 5800m and left BC in place for porters to move it later and went through Tangnag to new BC at bottom of West Ridge. Fixed 100m of ropes beyond camp on 17th. 18th to top were all member except Riddell who left others on 16th and went to Mera because didn't like objective danger on this part of climb. Roderick, Frank and Normand up rock step (already fixed on 17th) to get out snowy part of West Ridge, on highly corniced ridge, then at 6400m very steep, so crossed onto West Face and up 60-degree snow and ice couloir and then soft snow on face to top. Left at camp at 3:30 am and on top at 4:00 pm and back at camp 1:30 am of 19th. While rapelling down rock step Broderick's left hand hit by rock or ice. SW Face of mountain has constant falling ice, rock and snow after 7:00 am, so had to move beneath it after leaving Tangnag for west side of mountain and returning to it very early in morning before sun was on it and warming it.
Accidents Broderick's hand broken
Achievement 1st ascent
Agency Wilderness Experience
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2455564
Year 2003
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge-w face

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Sam Broderick M 1968 Switzerland/USA Climber Zurich, Switzerland Systems engineer with high-tech firm Details Other expeditions
Andreas Frank M 1967 Austria Climber Zurich, Switzerland Researcher in applied physics Details Other expeditions
Bruce George Alexander Normand M 1966 UK Leader Fribourg, Switzerland Researcher in physics Details Other expeditions
Kevin Riddell M 1971 Canada Climber Thornhill, Ontario Radiation therapist Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KYAS03301 HIGH - - - 258:14 (May 2004) -
KYAS03301 AAJ Normand, Bruce - - 78:409-411 (2004) -
KYAS03301 HIGH - - - 265:55-57 (Dec 2004) -
KYAS03301 HJ Normand, Bruce Kyashar Expedition, 2003 - 60:36-42 (2004) -
KYAS03301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200440900/Asia-Nepal-Malahangur-Asia-Nepal-Khumbu-Kyashar-aka-Peak-43-6770m-First-Official-Ascent - - -
KYAS03301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/60/7/kyashar-expedition-2003/ - - -