Kusum Kanguru | 1998 SE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Kusum Kanguru in 1998 via SE Ridge, led by Yasushi Yamanoi. Summit reached on 22nd April 1998. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2572
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KUSU98101
Peak ID KUSU
Year 1998
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Ridge
Route 2 E Face
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Yasushi Yamanoi
Sponsor -
Success 1 False
Success 2 True
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1998-04-14
Summit Date 1998-04-22
Summit Time 0200
Summit Days 8
Total Days 12
Termination Date 1998-04-26
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6370
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(14/04,4600m),C1(21/04,5700m),Biv(6100m),Smt(22/04)
Route Notes BC at east side of mountain west-northwest of Tangnag on Shorang C1 at plateau C2 between north and east summit (very close to summit). While Mrs Yamanoi and Inoue climbed via SE Ridge (normal route); Yasushi made first ascent of East Face, 1200m high face of 85 degrees steep rock in lower part and ice in upper part. Difficult rock and ice. Climbed during night because of falling rock and ice and reached summit at 2:00 am on 22nd April. 26 April moved from BC to Khare, north of Mera Peak and normal site for Mera BC. From there north to Hinku Glacier and then ENE to Khare Glacier, where slept at 5600m plateau of Khare Glacier night of 29th-30th two Yamanois tried to climb West Face of Pt 6623 (Peak 41?) and reached 6000m. Direct line was blue ice, very steep; tried different line but here was very loose rock so attempt abandoned. The peak they think is Peak 41 is ENE of Kusum Kanguru, NNE of Mera La, north of Naulekh (see attached photocopy of Shorong Hinku map). Some sources give its altitude as 6654m/21,830 ft.
Accidents -
Achievement 1st ascent of E Face
Agency None
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453554
Year 1998
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se ridge

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Yasushi Yamanoi M 1965 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Taeko Nagao Yamanoi F 1956 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan - Details Other expeditions
Tomoji Inoue M 1969 Japan Climber Hiratsuka, Kanagawa, Japan Mountain porter Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KUSU98101 AAJ Yamanoi, Yasushi Kusum Kanguru's East Face - 73:114-117 (1999) -
KUSU98101 AAJ - - - 73:376-378 (1999) -
KUSU98101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199937603/Asia-Nepal-Kasum-Kanguru-East-Face - - -
KUSU98101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199911400/Kasum-Kangurus-East-Face-Solitary-Adventures-on-a-Never-Ending-Story - - -