Kusum Kanguru | 1988 SE Face
A UK expedition to Kusum Kanguru in 1988 via SE Face, led by Nick Mason. Summit reached on 23rd October 1988. 7 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2902 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | KUSU88301 |
| Peak ID | KUSU |
| Year | 1988 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SE Face |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | UK |
| Leaders | Nick Mason |
| Sponsor | - |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 6th? |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Ringmo->Pangkama La->Tulikarke->Tushingdingma->Hinke |
| Basecamp Date | 1988-10-06 |
| Summit Date | 1988-10-23 |
| Summit Time | 0715 |
| Summit Days | 17 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 6370 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 3 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 900 |
| Total Members | 3 |
| Summit Members | 3 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 6 |
| Summit Hired | 4 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(06/10,4100m),C1(10/10,4875m),C2(12/10,5790m),C3(22/10,6250m),Smt(23/10) |
| Route Notes | BC at Lungsumba (just below Lungsamba Glacier) C1 at rocky moraine below glacier C2 at glacier C3 at top ridge (top of face). Climb actually began from C2. Fixed 3000 ft (900m) of rope. Was lot of rock fall on face: could climb only till 9:00 am. Climbing as expected (much ice floating in 1979 Peter Hillary pix had fallen off). |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | New route, 1st Britons to summit |
| Agency | Mountain Travel |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2450076 |
| Year | 1988 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | se face |
Members
7 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Nicholas R. (Nick) Mason | M | 1953 | UK | Leader | Tal-y-Bont, Conway, Gwynedd, Wales | Alpinist & lecturer on mountaineering | Details Other expeditions |
| John Diplock | M | 1951 | UK | Climber | Heathfield, E Sussex, England | Staff member (house parent) at outdoor pursuits centre | Details Other expeditions |
| Julian Holmes | M | - | UK | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Lhakpa Dorje (Ang Lhakpa) Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | Khunde, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Da Nuru (Dawa Nuru/Norbu) Sherpa | M | 1959 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Phortse, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Jangbu Sherpa | M | 1961 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Phortse, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Kami Tshering (Ang Chhiring) Sherpa | M | 1962 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Pangboche, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
5 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| KUSU88301 | AAJ | Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 63:195 (1989) | - |
| KUSU88301 | HJ | Mason, Nick | Kusum Kanguru Expedition | - | 46:157 (1988-1989) | - |
| KUSU88301 | MM | - | - | - | 125:12 (Jan 1989) | - |
| KUSU88301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198919502/Asia-Nepal-Kusum-Kanguru | - | - | - |
| KUSU88301 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/46/22/expeditions-and-notes-46/ | - | - | - |