Kusum Kanguru | 1983 NE Ridge-E Smt

A UK expedition to Kusum Kanguru in 1983 via NE Ridge-E Smt, led by David Hopkins. Summit reached on 16th September 1983. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2900
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KUSU83301
Peak ID KUSU
Year 1983
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge-E Smt
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders David Hopkins
Sponsor -
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Canada, Switzerland
Approach Kirantichap->Monjo->Kyashar Glacier (BC)
Basecamp Date 1983-09-04
Summit Date 1983-09-16
Summit Time -
Summit Days 12
Total Days 14
Termination Date 1983-09-18
Termination Reason 2
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6356
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(04/09,4200m),CaveCamp(12/09,5180m),ColCamp(15/09,6000m),E-Smt(16/09,6356m)
Route Notes Guy Neithardt (Swiss) and Andrew Wielochowski (British) made the first ascent of the NE Ridge of Kusum Kanguru East and the fifth ascent of the summit on Sept 16. The two other members, Richard Backus (Canadian) and I (Welsh) twice reached 20,000 feet at the base of the summit pyramid of the NE Ridge. The climb was completed alpine-style in a one-week absence from Base Camp. The Base Camp was established on Sept 5 at 14,050 feet at the snout of the Kyashar Glacier. It was reached in two days from Monjo, a small village two hour's walk north of Namche Bazar. The route had six distinct sections. First we folloed the southeast moraine of the Kyashar Glacier to a steep ascent toward the col between Kusum Kanguru and Charpati. We bivouacked on Sept 12 at 17,000 ft. Second, we climbed the small but complex glacier descending from the col to a flat basin below the col. Third, we ascended an 800-foot 45-degree snow rib to the col with 650 feet of fixed rope. We camped in the col at 18,550 feet. Fourth, the NE Ridge presented rock and ice difficulties where we first followed ledges on the southeast and then in the centre of the ridge. Fifth, the steep face leading to the top of the NE Buttress (20,400 ft) provided more difficulties and complex route-finding on loose rock and variable snow. Sixth, the knife-edged snow ridge was followed to the East Summit (6356 meters, 20,854 ft) David Hopkins, Association of British Mountain Guides and AAC
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448207
Year 1983
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge-e smt

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
David Hopkins M - UK Leader - - Details Other expeditions
Guy Neithardt M 1951 Switzerland Climber Leysin, Vaud, Switzerland Alpine guide & instructor at the International School Mountain Details Other expeditions
Andrew Wielochowski M - UK Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Richard Backus M - Canada Climber - - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KUSU83301 AAJ Hopkins, David - - 58:242-243 (1984) -
KUSU83301 AJ Hopkins, David Kumsum Kanguru, A Lightweight Expedition - 90:105-109 (1985) -
KUSU83301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198424203/Memphis-Mountaineers-Inc - - -
KUSU83301 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1985_files/AJ%201985%20105-109%20Hopkins%20Kanguru.pdf - - -