Kangtsune | 1977 W Ridge

A Japan expedition to Kangtsune in 1977 via W Ridge, led by Kozi Mizutani. Summit reached on 29th April 1977. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2174
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KTSU77101
Peak ID KTSU
Year 1977
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Kozi Mizutani
Sponsor Osaka Alpine Club Expedition to Kagmara Himal
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Jumla->Hurikot->Garpung Khola
Basecamp Date 1977-03-28
Summit Date 1977-04-29
Summit Time -
Summit Days 32
Total Days 39
Termination Date 1977-05-06
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6150m due to technically difficult ridge
High Point (m) 6150
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(28/03,4220m),C1(04/04,4950m),C2(13/04,2550m),C3(22/04,5650m),C4(27/04,6050m),xxx(29/04,6150m)
Route Notes Mizutani - 17 May 77 All members came back. No accident to members in avalanche C2 28th April. 2 Sherpas in tent and tent broken but Sherpas Ok. C4 established 27th April 6050m by 4 members. 28th April made route. 29th April attack for summit by Fujimoto and Kono. Left C4 8:00 am and 3 hrs climbing very knife W Ridge. Came back because very dangerous, reached 6150m. Necessary to fix rope all way but more left to fix. Weather no good - snowfall. With more fixed rope and other route = BC in other place but same ridge. Leave Kathmandu 25-26th May. Jha - 9 May 77 From LO: attempt given up on 29th April because 300m long ridge on way to summit was difficult and unfortunately weather wiped out chances for team to make further attempt. Team left 6th May for Jumla and KTM. Lohni - 1 May 77 C3 22 April 5650m. All well. 4 made camp: Fujimoto, Kai, Morioka and Kono Mizutani - 12 March 77 Caravan route west from Jumla to Hurikot village to Garpung Khola to BC at 4800m. Caravan about 10 days from BC over North-South Ridge across glaciers and up another North-South Ridge northwards to final West Ridge of their 6440m peak. Peak is east of Phoksundo Lake; local name is Kangchunne. C3 about 6000m; Summit attack end of April. Fujimoto, Kona and Nishigaki arrive KTM 14 March. Yoshinaga - 12 March 77 East of Rashemba and little higher (Tyson fluted Peak) - local name unknown - Kangchunne? < 21,440 1 member and 2 Sherpas to Jumla already. 14th - 1 more member 17th - remaining members including deputy leader to Jumla on scheduled flight. About 20th caravan states. 5-6 days reach last village and from then 3-4 made days to BC before Kagmara La on west side. 6 members and absentee leader. 3 Sherpas including Kitchen (sirdar=Anu Sherpa) Summit attack end of April - 3 high altitude camps with C3 about 6100m. Top 6440m. route = North Col of Kagmara and down little into glaciers (here C2). From here 1000m climb up South Face to West Ridge, very narrow snow ridge.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2445870
Year 1977
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Nobuaki Fujimoto M 1942 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Postman Details Other expeditions
Shozo Kai M 1949 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Manabu Kono M 1947 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Motor engineer Details Other expeditions
Koji Mizutani M 1936 Japan Climbing Leader Osaka, Japan Architect Details Other expeditions
Hideki Morioka M 1955 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Firefighter (member of city fire brigade) Details Other expeditions
Kazuko Nishigaki F 1941 Japan Climber Osaka, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Anu Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KTSU77101 AAJ Guha, Kamal K. - - 52:598 (1978) -
KTSU77101 IWA - - - 61:III (1978) -
KTSU77101 IWA - - - 61:32 (1978) -
KTSU77101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197859801/Asia-Nepal-Kangchunne-or-Kagmara-Kanjiroba-Himal - - -