Kangtega | 1998 NE Face

A France expedition to Kangtega in 1998 via NE Face, led by Francois Pallandre. Summit reached on 27th October 1998. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 3190
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KTEG98301
Peak ID KTEG
Year 1998
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Francois Pallandre
Sponsor Expedition Jeunes Caf/FFME
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 12th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Hinku Valley->Tangnag->Hinku Glacier
Basecamp Date 1998-10-11
Summit Date 1998-10-27
Summit Time 1100
Summit Days 16
Total Days 21
Termination Date 1998-11-01
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6783
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 7
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(11/10,4900m),ABC(13/10,5300m),Biv(23/10,6000m),Biv(26/10,6500m),Smt(27/10)
Route Notes BC at south end of Hinku Nuptse Glacier near Mera Peak BC ABC at Hinku Nuptse Glacier at base of rock cliff Biv at shoulder of NE Face. Started to climb from ABC: 3 members started to fix start of face 19 Oct and fixed 300m and made big biv place on snowband at about 6000m (big for 7 climbers). Very technical route, very steep thin ice. Spent 2 nights here (22nd and 24th). Fixed 150-180m of rope above biv. Climbed to shoulder of ridge and here at 6550m on left part of the face 7 people could biv here 26th, 150m below top. From biv to top and back to biv; started up 8:30 am, on top 11:00-11:30 am and back to biv about 1:00 pm and rapelled down face to BC in evening about 6:00 pm. Cleaned face of all rope but left anchors for rapelling down.
Accidents -
Achievement New route - no one attempted NE Face unless Japanese did without success
Agency Thamserku Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453742
Year 1998
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne face

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Erwan Le Lann M 1973 France Climber Grenoble, Isere, France Training to be alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Francois Jacques Jean Marsigny M 1959 France Climber Les Houches, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Sebastien Montaz-Rosset M 1975 France Climber Challes-les-Eaux, Savoie, France Student Details Other expeditions
Francois Pallandre M 1966 France Leader Argentiere, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Karen Pallandre-Allais F 1970 France Climber Argentiere, Haute-Savoie, France Agent for book publishing company Details Other expeditions
Franck Plenier M 1974 France Climber Aix-en-Provence, Provence, France Student Details Other expeditions
Herve Christophe A. Qualizza M 1976 France Climber Froges, Isere, France Training to be alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Sebastien Schell M 1979 France Climber Metz, Metz-Ville, France Student Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KTEG98301 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 73:376 (1999) -
KTEG98301 HIGH - - - 198:34-35 (May 1999) -
KTEG98301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199937601/Asia-Nepal-Kangtega-Northeast-Face-New-Route - - -