Kangtega | 1988 SE Face
A Japan expedition to Kangtega in 1988 via SE Face, led by Koji Murakami. Summit reached on 13th April 1988. 3 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 82 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | KTEG88101 |
| Peak ID | KTEG |
| Year | 1988 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SE Face |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Koji Murakami |
| Sponsor | Orio Alpine Club Kang-Taiga Expedition 1988 |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1988-04-06 |
| Summit Date | 1988-04-13 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 7 |
| Total Days | 12 |
| Termination Date | 1988-04-18 |
| Termination Reason | 5 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 6100m due to snowfall, avalanching, insufficient equipment in alpine-style attempt |
| High Point (m) | 6100 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 0 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 3 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(06/04,4900m),Biv1(11/04,5200m),Biv2(12/04,5800m),xxx(13/04,6100m) |
| Route Notes | BC at junction of Hinku Nepal and Hinku Shar Glaciers (porters not going higher) Biv 1 at junction of Hinku Nepal and Kangtega Glaciers Biv 2 in icefall of Kangtega Glacier High point at Kangtega Glacier at near "a" of Kangtega. Climbing started 9th April. 11th April 200m ice climbing and then many big crevasses. Each member carried little equipment in alpine-style and encountered 10m crevasse, so turned back and slept at 5200m, 1st biv site. 12th April bad weather began with daily snowfall, so after 5 days gave up. Big avalanches coming down, climb too dangerous. |
| Accidents | Maeda bad altitude sickness at BC and did no climbing |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Dream Trekking |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2449883 |
| Year | 1988 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | se face |
Members
3 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hiroyuki Aoki | M | 1962 | Japan | Climber | Kitakyushu, Fukuoka, Japan | Construction worker (tile fixer) | Details Other expeditions |
| Akemi Maeda | F | 1953 | Japan | Climber | Kitakyushu, Fukuoka, Japan | Housewife | Details Other expeditions |
| Koji Murakami | M | 1955 | Japan | Leader | Kitakyushu, Fukuoka, Japan | Mountain equipment shop owner | Details Other expeditions |
References
4 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| KTEG88101 | AAJ | Murakami, Koji | - | - | 63:195 (1989) | - |
| KTEG88101 | IWA | - | - | - | :274 (1989) | - |
| KTEG88101 | IWA | - | - | - | :69 (1989) | - |
| KTEG88101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198919501/Asia-Nepal-Kangtega-Attempt | - | - | - |