Kangtega | 1986 NE Buttress up; SE Face down

A USA expedition to Kangtega in 1986 via NE Buttress up; SE Face down, led by Jay Smith. Summit reached on 29th October 1986. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 919
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KTEG86301
Peak ID KTEG
Year 1986
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Buttress up; SE Face down
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Jay Smith
Sponsor American Kangtega Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 6th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Canada
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-10-12
Summit Date 1986-10-29
Summit Time 1130
Summit Days 17
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6783
Traverse True
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(12/10,5000m),ABC(21/10,5730m),Biv1(22/10,5900m),Biv2(23/10,6100m),Biv3(24/10,6200m),Biv4(25/10,6300m),Biv5(26/10,6500m),Biv6(27/10,6600m),Biv7(28/10,6700m),Smt(29/10)
Route Notes BC at 5000m at base of SE glacier ABC at 5730m Biv at 5900m below 1st rock band Biv at 6100m top 2nd band Biv at 6300m base 4th band Biv at 6500m at top of snow mushrooms Biv at 6600m half way up long gully to summit plateau Biv at 6700m at on plateau to south of summit. Just above Hinku Nuptse Glacier was 100m wall where fixed one rope for descent. Total 4 rock bands of 2 pitches each most difficult section was final snow mushrooms. 4 men started up on 22 Oct from ABC and reached summit in 7-1/2 days. One got tired and didn't get all the way to top. Waited while other three did and then all 4 descended to BC same day. On top at 11:30 am and back in BC 6:00 pm having skirted icefall at eastern end of Kangtaiga Glacier. Had permit for Kusum Kangru but E Face not attractive and were tired after Kangtega so made no attempt to climb it.
Accidents None
Achievement 1st traverse & new ascent route
Agency Himalayan Journeys
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449349
Year 1986
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne buttress up; se face down

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Joanne Bentley F 1953 Canada BC Manager Tahoe Paradise, California Veterinarian's assistant Details Other expeditions
Mark Bernard Hesse M 1950 USA Climber Colorado Springs, Colorado Outward Bound instructor Details Other expeditions
Craig Reason M 1963 USA Climber Round Mountain, Nevada Heavy equipment operator Details Other expeditions
Jordan Kramer (Jay) Smith M 1953 USA Leader Tahoe Paradise, California Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Paul (Wally) Teare M 1959 Canada Climber Tahoe City, California Plumber, carpenter & climber Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KTEG86301 AAJ Smith, Jay Kantega's Northeast Buttress - 61:41-47 (1987) -
KTEG86301 CAJ Teare, Paul Kangtega - 70:62-63 (1987) -
KTEG86301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198704100/Kangtegas-Northeast-Buttress - - -