Kangtega | 1986 NW Face/Ridge

A USA expedition to Kangtega in 1986 via NW Face/Ridge, led by Jeff Lowe. Summit reached on 1st May 1986. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field	Value
ID	950
Imported	2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID	KTEG86102
Peak ID	KTEG
Year	1986
Season	1
Host Country	1
Route 1	NW Face/Ridge
Route 2	-
Route 3	-
Route 4	-
Nationality	USA
Leaders	Jeff Lowe
Sponsor	Colorado Kangtega-Nuptse Expedition
Success 1	True
Success 2	False
Success 3	False
Success 4	False
Ascent 1	5th
Ascent 2	-
Ascent 3	-
Ascent 4	-
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Countries	UK
Approach	-
Basecamp Date	1986-04-13
Summit Date	1986-05-01
Summit Time	-
Summit Days	18
Total Days	20
Termination Date	1986-05-03
Termination Reason	1
Termination Notes	-
High Point (m)	6783
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Camps	0
Fixed Rope (m)	0
Total Members	6
Summit Members	2
Member Deaths	0
Total Hired	0
Summit Hired	0
Hired Deaths	0
No Hired	True
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Taken	False
O2 Unknown	False
Other Summits	Climbed Lobuche East; attempted Nuptse (NUPT-861-01)
Campsites	BC(13/04,4270m),Biv1(23/04,5200m),Biv2(24/04,5800m),Biv3(27/04,6100m),Biv4(29/04,6250m),Biv5(30/04,6400m),Smt(01/05)
Route Notes	BC at Omega Valley C1 just short of getting glacier running south from Omega C2 just 300 hundred feet short of col at 5865m C3 at snow cave on tongue of ice (hanging glacier) C4 at bottom of crevasse on a serac near West Summit C5 at main summit plateau in snow cave. Ascent on right side of NW Ridge. Frost and Lowe climbed lower northwest peak; Hargreaves and Twight climbed main peak up steep ice face. Descent was by northeast couloir. Roghaar and Frost worked on lower part of route after others went to Lobuche on 14th (and returned on 21st April) and pushed route to 17,000 ft to get onto glacier and 5 members (excluding Kendall) started up together on 23 April aiming for Col at 5865m. 24th reached near Col, 25th down to 17,000 ft and made another carry to 19,000 ft by 4 while Roghaar feeling unwell, descended and abandoned climb. 27th moved from col up rope on 2 pitches up headwall above ice tongue. 29th four members moved camp up headwall. 30th four climbed on ice gully and traversed into a notch between north and main summits to main summit plateau. Lowe had bronchitis and health deteriorating on 30 April. Surprised on 1 May to find very difficult ice climb to top up steep fluting, so Hargreaves and Twight went up for top with all of expedition's small supply of ice screws and rope while Lowe and Frost went to subsidiary summit (6685m) in easy climb and descended onto Hinku Nuptse Glacier at 19,000 ft on top 1979 route. 2 May summiters followed same descent route. All in BC 2 May. Lobuche East first by Hargreaves, Kendall, Lowe and Twight. Roghaar left Nepal about 3 May. Frost returned to KTM 9 May and leaves Nepal 14 May. Kendall returns to KTM 11 May. Lowe returns to KTM about 25-27 May and leave Nepal end of May.
Accidents	None
Achievement	1st British ascent
Agency	Mountain Travel
Commercial Route	-
Standard Route	-
Primary Route	False
Primary Member	False
Primary Reference	False
Primary ID	-
Checksum	2449168
Year	1986
Summit Success	True
O2 Summary	None
Route (lowercase)	nw face/ridge

Members

Field	Value
ID	15747
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	KTEG86102
Member ID	02
Peak ID	KTEG
Year	1986
Season	1
First Name	Thomas McCallay (Tom)
Last Name	Frost
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1936
Calculated Age	49
Citizenship	USA
Status	Climber
Residence	Boulder, Colorado
Occupation	Engineer
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	6685
Summit Date 1	1986-05-01
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	(1936-2018) Died 24 August 2018
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	2
HCN	0
Checksum	2426329
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	thomas mccallay (tom) frost
Year of Birth	1936
Year	1986
Age at Expedition	50
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	15748
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	KTEG86102
Member ID	03
Peak ID	KTEG
Year	1986
Season	1
First Name	Alison Jane
Last Name	Hargreaves
Sex	F
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1962
Calculated Age	24
Citizenship	UK
Status	Climber
Residence	Whatstandwell, Matlock, Derbyshire, England
Occupation	Manufacturer and importer of climbing equipment
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6783
Summit Date 1	1986-05-01
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	5
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	(1962-1995) Died 13 August 1995 on K2 during a storm near the summit
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2435629
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	alison jane hargreaves
Year of Birth	1962
Year	1986
Age at Expedition	24
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	15749
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	KTEG86102
Member ID	04
Peak ID	KTEG
Year	1986
Season	1
First Name	Henry W.
Last Name	Kendall
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1926
Calculated Age	59
Citizenship	USA
Status	Climber
Residence	Sharon, Massachusetts
Occupation	Physicist
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	True
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	17
HCN	0
Checksum	2422848
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	henry w. kendall
Year of Birth	1926
Year	1986
Age at Expedition	60
Role	BC Only

Field	Value
ID	15750
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	KTEG86102
Member ID	01
Peak ID	KTEG
Year	1986
Season	1
First Name	Jeff
Last Name	Lowe
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1950
Calculated Age	35
Citizenship	USA
Status	Leader
Residence	Lyons, Colorado
Occupation	Businessman (manufacturing climbing equipment)
Leader	True
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	6685
Summit Date 1	1986-05-01
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	(1950-2018) Died 24 August 2018
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	2
HCN	0
Checksum	2431503
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	jeff lowe
Year of Birth	1950
Year	1986
Age at Expedition	36
Role	Leader

Field	Value
ID	15751
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	KTEG86102
Member ID	05
Peak ID	KTEG
Year	1986
Season	1
First Name	Bruce
Last Name	Roghaar
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1947
Calculated Age	38
Citizenship	USA
Status	Climber
Residence	Ogden, Utah
Occupation	Teacher, religion in Mormon seminary
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	5800
Summit Date 1	1986-04-24
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	9
HCN	0
Checksum	2430307
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	bruce roghaar
Year of Birth	1947
Year	1986
Age at Expedition	39
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	15752
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	KTEG86102
Member ID	06
Peak ID	KTEG
Year	1986
Season	1
First Name	Marc Francis
Last Name	Twight
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1961
Calculated Age	24
Citizenship	USA
Status	Climber
Residence	Seattle, Washington
Occupation	Alpine guide & photographer
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6783
Summit Date 1	1986-05-01
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	5
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2435523
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	marc francis twight
Year of Birth	1961
Year	1986
Age at Expedition	25
Role	Member

6 recorded members.

Name	Sex	Year of Birth	Citizenship	Status	Residence	Occupation
Thomas McCallay (Tom) Frost	M	1936	USA	Climber	Boulder, Colorado	Engineer	Details Other expeditions
Alison Jane Hargreaves	F	1962	UK	Climber	Whatstandwell, Matlock, Derbyshire, England	Manufacturer and importer of climbing equipment	Details Other expeditions
Henry W. Kendall	M	1926	USA	Climber	Sharon, Massachusetts	Physicist	Details Other expeditions
Jeff Lowe	M	1950	USA	Leader	Lyons, Colorado	Businessman (manufacturing climbing equipment)	Details Other expeditions
Bruce Roghaar	M	1947	USA	Climber	Ogden, Utah	Teacher, religion in Mormon seminary	Details Other expeditions
Marc Francis Twight	M	1961	USA	Climber	Seattle, Washington	Alpine guide & photographer	Details Other expeditions

References

Field	Value
ID	235
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	KTEG86102
Reference ID	01
Year	1986
Type	2
Journal	AAJ
Author	Lowe, Jeff
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1987
Language	-
Citation	61:230-232 (1987)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	4253
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	KTEG86102
Reference ID	02
Year	1986
Type	3
Journal	MM
Author	-
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1986
Language	-
Citation	110:9 (Jul 1986)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	5462
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	KTEG86102
Reference ID	03
Year	1986
Type	3
Journal	CLMB
Author	Twight, Marc
Title	Kiss or Kill
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1986
Language	-
Citation	98:42-46 (Oct 1986)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	12374
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	KTEG86102
Reference ID	04
Year	1986
Type	5
Journal	-
Author	-
Title	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198723003/Kangtega-and-Lobuje-East-Ascents-and-Nuptse-Attempt
Publisher	-
Publication Date	-
Language	-
Citation	-
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID	Journal	Author	Title	Publisher	Citation	Yak 94
KTEG86102	AAJ	Lowe, Jeff	-	-	61:230-232 (1987)	-
KTEG86102	MM	-	-	-	110:9 (Jul 1986)	-
KTEG86102	CLMB	Twight, Marc	Kiss or Kill	-	98:42-46 (Oct 1986)	-
KTEG86102	-	-	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198723003/Kangtega-and-Lobuje-East-Ascents-and-Nuptse-Attempt	-	-	-