Kangtega | 1979 NE Ridge (to 6250m)

A UK expedition to Kangtega in 1979 via NE Ridge (to 6250m), led by Rab Carrington. Summit reached on 24th September 1979. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2118
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KTEG79301
Peak ID KTEG
Year 1979
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge (to 6250m)
Route 2 N Ridge (to 5800m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Rab Carrington
Sponsor British Kang Taiga Expedition 1979
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lamosangu->Khumbu Valley
Basecamp Date 1979-09-20
Summit Date 1979-09-24
Summit Time -
Summit Days 4
Total Days 14
Termination Date 1979-10-04
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6250m due to bad weather and lack of time
High Point (m) 6250
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(27/09),xxx(24/09,6250m)
Route Notes BC 20th Sept - 2 attempts on mountain by 2 different ways by all 3 members together. 1) NE Ridge: from Omaga valley to BC at 16,200 feet at foot of Omaga Glacier to pass at 5786m to NE Ridge. 1-1/2 days to pass, then 2nd night short distance above pass on ridge. Then it snowed and descended via pass of 5680m into head of Mingbo valley to north of this 2nd pass and back to BC. This was 24/26 Sept. 2) 29 Sept to North Ridge on southwest corner of Omaga Glacier. Biv less than about 19,000 feet or so in 2 hours climbing, weather bad (snow) and retreated bad weather till 5th Oct and then were to go to West Cwm. So no time for more attempts on Kangtega, so abandoned Kangtega in favour of Everest. 4th actually left BC and Carrington decided not to go to Everest - may be didn't have Everest fever. Think 2nd route feasible and could have finished it given spell of good weather. Carrington left Khumjung 13 Oct and arrived KTM with wife on foot 20 Oct. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Ministry of Tourism - 7 Oct 79 Abandoned after reaching 20,500 feet on 24 Sept, no reason given. LO in KTM 6 Oct. Carrington to arrive 8 Oct. Jim Jerram - 6 Oct 79 Carrington's expedition failed on Kangtega. He and other 2 split up. Carrington now in Khumjung - will stay a week before coming out to KTM. Other 2 will join Scott on Everest. Hall & Carrington - 2 Sept 79 BC Thyangboche - route northwest or northeast sides hoping to avoid repeating Japanese '79 spr route. Leave KTM 5 Sept - stay at Khumjung with day walks and find BC. After 2 weeks go straight to mountain and finish climb by end Sept, then rest for 5 Oct Everest BC rendezvous. No Sherpas above BC No oxygen
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446750
Year 1979
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge (to 6250m)

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Rab Carrington M 1947 UK Leader Sheffield, S Yorkshire, England Mathematics teacher Details Other expeditions
Brian P. Hall M 1951 UK Climber Kendal, Cumbria, England Ecologist Details Other expeditions
Alan Paul (Al) Rouse M 1951 UK Climber Sheffield, S Yorkshire, England Mathematics teacher Details Other expeditions
Nima Chottre Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KTEG79301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 53:614 (1980) -
KTEG79301 HJ Carrington, Rab British Kang Taiga Expedition, 1979 - 37:150-152 (1979-80) -
KTEG79301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198061401/Asia-Nepal-Kangtega-Attempt - - -
KTEG79301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/37/30/expeditions-and-notes-37/ - - -