Kangtega | 1979 N Face

A Japan expedition to Kangtega in 1979 via N Face, led by Kazuo Yuda. Summit reached on 21st April 1979. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2079
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KTEG79101
Peak ID KTEG
Year 1979
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Kazuo Yuda
Sponsor Sangaku Doshikai Kangtega Expedition 1979
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 2nd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed True
Countries -
Approach Khumbu Valley->Hinku Nup Glacier (BC)
Basecamp Date 1979-04-05
Summit Date 1979-04-21
Summit Time 1410
Summit Days 16
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6783
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(05/04,5080m),C1(08/04,5350m),Biv(20/04,6000m),Smt(21/04)
Route Notes Hiro Kuraoka - 23 Oct 2019 1979 Japanese KTEG team only to false summit according to Hiro. They had climbed a route in N Face, but not to main summit, but only to false summit (6685m). Other mountaineers from same mountain club say nobody from Japan ever climbed KTEG before. This would make Hiro's team first Japanese to ascend KTEG. Yuda, Hondo and Takeuchi, Shanta Bhawan Hospital - 29 April 79 Ishibashi and Dr with caravan to Lukla for airplane to KTM; arrived Lukla 4 May. Takeuchi frostbitten toes and feet; Hondo unknown back problem and Yuda broken left leg and left finger. 21 April Yuda slipped at 6400m and he and Hondo fell 40m into crevasse (30m from top to bottom of crevasse) which had one side hard rock and other soft arching move head snow. 3 men sleep night 21/22 April near crevasse - also Hondo but 2 summiters don't know he is there and Yudo in crevasse. 22 April: Kazuo and Ishibashi tried to help Yudo out of crevasse (trouble because of back) and Ishibashi even went down into crevasse to try to help Yuda out but no success; after failed Hondo and Takeuchi went down for help and Ishibashi stayed at crevassse with sleeping bag, biv tent and jacket and food. Takeuchi arrived BC 22 night and Hondo 23 morning. 24 April Dr and Peniur Sherpa went up to get Yuda out of crevasse, but on 23rd Yuda had climbed out of crevasse and stayed there. Dr and Peniur Sherpa reached crevasse 26 April; they started down and reach C1 27 April, arrived BC and 28 helicopter to KTM. Yuda had triple shoes and overshoes 1st night; 2nd night got Hondo's sleeping bag. Fall: 8:00 am 21 April. Yuda out of crevasse 12:00 noon 23 April after 3-1/2 hours effort. Yuda believed 2nd day he would get out of crevasse because 1st night had dream many American men around him. Could use only right arm and right leg to climb out so used knees to get out of crevasse - going down: sometimes crawled on knees, sometimes pulled by others on biv tents, sometimes on steep ice, on his bottom. Will climb again: Kangchenjunga Spr '80. Japanese Dr in KTM estimates leg will need 3 months to heal. Yuda will go to Japan after caravan arrives KTM but Hondo son and Takeuchi with him. Naoe Sakashita, 32, salesman Tokyo Takeuchi and Ishibashi summit Kangtega 21 April. 21 April on way from bivouac site at 6000m (above C1) to summit very steep ice face - top man Ishibashi, fixed rope and using this rope Takeuchi followed and after him Hondo and Yuda followed but point not strong and it (point) broke and Hondo and Yuda fell 80m in morning 1 after 1 hours climbing from biv. Other 2 didn't know about fall and went on to summit at 14:10 hours. In afternoon weather not good; near biv site, they again had to biv (without food). Next am 22 April, found other two near biv. Hondo not so serious and (cracked back bone) can move by himself and he biv by self night of 21/22 Arpil, but Yuda's left leg broken and he stayed in crevasse. He could talk on 22nd. Ishibashi took care of Yuda and stayed near him night of 22/23 April while Hondo and Takeuchi went to BC to ask for rescue helicopter. 23 April - doctor went up alone probably because Takeuchi slight frostbite in toes and Hondo's back injured. One Sherpa Penuri went up with doctor. Yuda maybe in crevasse still; other 3 men may try to get him out of crevasse - hope he still alive. S. went to rally Thamserku to help but they not there; they were above 6000m and will climb to top in 3-4 days. Sharma, Ministry of Tourism - 25 April 79 21 April - 4 members 1) Kazuo Yuda (leader) 2) Nobuyasu Hondo 3) Makoto Ishibashi 4) Koichi Takeuchi Started climbing from C1 at 5500m. 2 fell down (Yuda and Hondo) about 40m because fixed rope broke. Other 2 members went to summit from C1. Yuda's leg broken and Hondo's chest received blow. Hondo eating and going down but Yuda as on 23rd was at 6000m on ridge between Kangtega Main and K II and army helicopter to bring back to KTM tomorrow. BC ABC C1, expedition's camps 5-member team - other is doctor in BC. LO: Yuda could not be taken out of crevasse as of 23rd. 2:10 pm Maruyama & Takeuchi climbed summit on 21st - other 2 while climbing, fell and not possible take Yudo out of snow crevasse, so Ang Temba sent for helicopter. Hondo 22 April in C1 says Ang Temba Dr & Takeuchi were to go yesterday to get Yuda out of crevasse Dr Hiroshi Maruyama One Sherpa with expedition Ang Temba - 25 April 79 Helicopter tomorrow for leader's injury from fall in crevasse - other member also injured at 6400m. Takeuchi and Ishibashi to summit on 21 April 4 to summit : Leader Hondo and Kondo in crevasse and 2 to top C1 - 5800m = high biv = 6000m and leader maybe in high biv and may die Suzuki, Thamserku leader - 16 March 79 BC about 31 March on Hinku Nup Glacier Route North Face. 2 high camps - C2 6000m Summit after 3 weeks all members. 1 Sherpa BC only. Also very steep. All members will be in KTM 22 March and leave for Lukla 27 March.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446594
Year 1979
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Nobuyasu Hondo M 1953 Japan Climber Ichikawa, Chiba, Japan Cook (in a high school) Details Other expeditions
Makoto Ishibashi M 1952 Japan Climber Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Maruyama M 1949 Japan Exp Doctor Tokyo, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Koichi Takeuchi M 1955 Japan Climber Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan Electronics engineer Details Other expeditions
Kazuo Yuda M 1948 Japan Leader Yokohama, Japan Engineer Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KTEG79101 AAJ - - - 53:613-614 (1980) -
KTEG79101 JAC Takeuchi, Koichi North Wall of Kantega 1979 - 75:133-146 (1980) -
KTEG79101 IWA - - - 74:151 (1980) -
KTEG79101 IWA - - - 74:35-36 (1980) -
KTEG79101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198061303/Asia-Nepal-Kangtega-from-the-North - - -