Kangtega | 1963 SE Face

A New Zealand expedition to Kangtega in 1963 via SE Face, led by Edmund Hillary. Summit reached on 5th June 1963. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2537
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KTEG63101
Peak ID KTEG
Year 1963
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality New Zealand
Leaders Edmund Hillary
Sponsor Himalayan Schoolhouse Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries India, UK, USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1963-06-02
Summit Date 1963-06-05
Summit Time -
Summit Days 3
Total Days 4
Termination Date 1963-06-06
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6783
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Tawoche (TAWO-631-01)
Campsites BC1(02/06),BC2(03/06,5180m),C1(04/06,6190m),Smt(05/06)
Route Notes 1963 Spring Tawache - East Face attempt Kangtega SE Face - no doubts at all they were on Kangtega's higher peak Tom Frost - 31 March 86 Kangtega Spring 1963: Dave Dorman was only member who actually stood on summit; others including Frost were near it. Wyeth - 17 May June 24th expect return arrive Kathmandu. Walking all way back. Whole expedition except 2 Drs who staying 4 was longer on public health activities (water and clinics) and those who go up 18 May to Jiri. Wyeth Lady Hillary Mrs Anna Wilson, wife of James Wilson Mrs Dorene Del Foume, fiancee of Tom Frost? Expect reach expedition at Khumjung, expedition's base camp, about 24 May for openings of 2 schools last of May. (Charles Wylie on or about 9:00 am) Sears money for Hillary climbing, Field money only for schools, etc. Ladies: Miss Dorene Del Foume, Anaheim California, friend of Tom Frost from nearby Orange California arrive Tuesday with Lady Hillary, geologist with North American Aviation Res lab. James Wilson from Christchurch, New Zealand - he's about to start for PhD phil of relation at Benares in July; he's 26, no permanent address in New Zealand; don't know whether will return Christchurch in 2 years. Himalayan School House Expedition: (Training Sherpas to carry on) at Khumjung, Thami, Pangboche schools at Thami and Pangboche. Polyethylene waterpipe 1 mile from sacred mountain Khumbila to Khumjung. 8 climbers and 1 Doig 200 porters - 14 high altitude Sherpas Climb 2 mountains: Taweche 21,463 ft Kangtega 22,340 ft Just above Thyangboche Monastery, soutwest side of Ama Dablam never before attempted because considered impossible. Will try first Tawoche on which recon already made; permission for this received on Sunday. Hillary hopes to climb to peaks but will see how fit he feels when gets high up (still supposed to be under 16,000 ft ceiling).
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2440779
Year 1963
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se face

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Edmund Percival Hillary M 1919 New Zealand Leader Auckland, New Zealand Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Desmond Doig M 1921 UK Reporter Calcutta, India Statesman newspaper Details Other expeditions
Michael Bedford Gill M 1937 New Zealand Climber Otago, New Zealand Physiologist, Otago University Details Other expeditions
Philip Houghton M - New Zealand Non-Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Thomas McCallay (Tom) Frost M 1936 USA Climber Orange, California Engineer Details Other expeditions
David B. Dornan M 1936 USA Climber Moose, Wyoming Graduate student (MA) in philosophy at University of Colorado Details Other expeditions
James G. (Jim) Wilson M - New Zealand Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Bhanu Banerjee M 1937 India Non-Climber Calcutta, India - Details Other expeditions
Murray R. Ellis M 1924 New Zealand Non-Climber New Zealand - Details Other expeditions

References

11 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KTEG63101 AAJ Dornan, David B. The Himalayan Schoolhouse Expedition - 38:31-36 (1964) -
KTEG63101 HJ Wilson, J. G. The Himalayan Schoolhouse Expedition, 1963 - 25:51-62 (1964) -
KTEG63101 AJ Wilson, J. G. The Himalayan Schoolhouse Expedition - 69:23-33 (May 1964) -
KTEG63101 AJ Wilson, J. G. The Himalayan Schoolhouse Expeditions - 70:226-239 (Nov 1965) -
KTEG63101 - HIllary, Edmund Schoolhouse in the Clouds Doubleday, New York - H319
KTEG63101 - Gill, Michael Mountain Midsummer Hodder & Stoughton, London - G116
KTEG63101 NZAJ Wilson, J. G, The Himalayan Schoolhouse Expedition 1963 - 20:24-35 (1963) -
KTEG63101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12196403100/The-Himalayan-Schoolhouse-Expedition - - -
KTEG63101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/25/5/the-himalayan-schoolhouse-expedition-1963/ - - -
KTEG63101 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1965_files/AJ%201965%20226-239%20Wilson%20Schoolhouse%20Exped..pdf - - -
KTEG63101 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1964_files/AJ%201964%2023-33%20Himalayan%20Schoolhouse%20Expedition.pdf - - -