Kangtega | 1963 SE Face
A New Zealand expedition to Kangtega in 1963 via SE Face, led by Edmund Hillary. Summit reached on 5th June 1963. 9 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2537 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | KTEG63101 |
| Peak ID | KTEG |
| Year | 1963 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SE Face |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | New Zealand |
| Leaders | Edmund Hillary |
| Sponsor | Himalayan Schoolhouse Expedition |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 1st |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | India, UK, USA |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1963-06-02 |
| Summit Date | 1963-06-05 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 3 |
| Total Days | 4 |
| Termination Date | 1963-06-06 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 6783 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 0 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 9 |
| Summit Members | 4 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 5 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Attempted Tawoche (TAWO-631-01) |
| Campsites | BC1(02/06),BC2(03/06,5180m),C1(04/06,6190m),Smt(05/06) |
| Route Notes | 1963 Spring Tawache - East Face attempt Kangtega SE Face - no doubts at all they were on Kangtega's higher peak Tom Frost - 31 March 86 Kangtega Spring 1963: Dave Dorman was only member who actually stood on summit; others including Frost were near it. Wyeth - 17 May June 24th expect return arrive Kathmandu. Walking all way back. Whole expedition except 2 Drs who staying 4 was longer on public health activities (water and clinics) and those who go up 18 May to Jiri. Wyeth Lady Hillary Mrs Anna Wilson, wife of James Wilson Mrs Dorene Del Foume, fiancee of Tom Frost? Expect reach expedition at Khumjung, expedition's base camp, about 24 May for openings of 2 schools last of May. (Charles Wylie on or about 9:00 am) Sears money for Hillary climbing, Field money only for schools, etc. Ladies: Miss Dorene Del Foume, Anaheim California, friend of Tom Frost from nearby Orange California arrive Tuesday with Lady Hillary, geologist with North American Aviation Res lab. James Wilson from Christchurch, New Zealand - he's about to start for PhD phil of relation at Benares in July; he's 26, no permanent address in New Zealand; don't know whether will return Christchurch in 2 years. Himalayan School House Expedition: (Training Sherpas to carry on) at Khumjung, Thami, Pangboche schools at Thami and Pangboche. Polyethylene waterpipe 1 mile from sacred mountain Khumbila to Khumjung. 8 climbers and 1 Doig 200 porters - 14 high altitude Sherpas Climb 2 mountains: Taweche 21,463 ft Kangtega 22,340 ft Just above Thyangboche Monastery, soutwest side of Ama Dablam never before attempted because considered impossible. Will try first Tawoche on which recon already made; permission for this received on Sunday. Hillary hopes to climb to peaks but will see how fit he feels when gets high up (still supposed to be under 16,000 ft ceiling). |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2440779 |
| Year | 1963 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | se face |
Members
9 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Edmund Percival Hillary | M | 1919 | New Zealand | Leader | Auckland, New Zealand | Alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Desmond Doig | M | 1921 | UK | Reporter | Calcutta, India | Statesman newspaper | Details Other expeditions |
| Michael Bedford Gill | M | 1937 | New Zealand | Climber | Otago, New Zealand | Physiologist, Otago University | Details Other expeditions |
| Philip Houghton | M | - | New Zealand | Non-Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Thomas McCallay (Tom) Frost | M | 1936 | USA | Climber | Orange, California | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| David B. Dornan | M | 1936 | USA | Climber | Moose, Wyoming | Graduate student (MA) in philosophy at University of Colorado | Details Other expeditions |
| James G. (Jim) Wilson | M | - | New Zealand | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Bhanu Banerjee | M | 1937 | India | Non-Climber | Calcutta, India | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Murray R. Ellis | M | 1924 | New Zealand | Non-Climber | New Zealand | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
11 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| KTEG63101 | AAJ | Dornan, David B. | The Himalayan Schoolhouse Expedition | - | 38:31-36 (1964) | - |
| KTEG63101 | HJ | Wilson, J. G. | The Himalayan Schoolhouse Expedition, 1963 | - | 25:51-62 (1964) | - |
| KTEG63101 | AJ | Wilson, J. G. | The Himalayan Schoolhouse Expedition | - | 69:23-33 (May 1964) | - |
| KTEG63101 | AJ | Wilson, J. G. | The Himalayan Schoolhouse Expeditions | - | 70:226-239 (Nov 1965) | - |
| KTEG63101 | - | HIllary, Edmund | Schoolhouse in the Clouds | Doubleday, New York | - | H319 |
| KTEG63101 | - | Gill, Michael | Mountain Midsummer | Hodder & Stoughton, London | - | G116 |
| KTEG63101 | NZAJ | Wilson, J. G, | The Himalayan Schoolhouse Expedition 1963 | - | 20:24-35 (1963) | - |
| KTEG63101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12196403100/The-Himalayan-Schoolhouse-Expedition | - | - | - |
| KTEG63101 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/25/5/the-himalayan-schoolhouse-expedition-1963/ | - | - | - |
| KTEG63101 | - | - | https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1965_files/AJ%201965%20226-239%20Wilson%20Schoolhouse%20Exped..pdf | - | - | - |
| KTEG63101 | - | - | https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1964_files/AJ%201964%2023-33%20Himalayan%20Schoolhouse%20Expedition.pdf | - | - | - |