Kangtega | 2019 E Face-S Ridge-W Ridge

A Japan expedition to Kangtega in 2019 via E Face-S Ridge-W Ridge, led by Hiroyuki Kuraoka. Summit reached on 18th October 2019. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field	Value
ID	10442
Imported	2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID	KTEG19301
Peak ID	KTEG
Year	2019
Season	3
Host Country	1
Route 1	E Face-S Ridge-W Ridge
Route 2	-
Route 3	-
Route 4	-
Nationality	Japan
Leaders	Hiroyuki Kuraoka
Sponsor	Mountain Experience Hiro Kantega Expedition 2019
Success 1	True
Success 2	False
Success 3	False
Success 4	False
Ascent 1	-
Ascent 2	-
Ascent 3	-
Ascent 4	-
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Countries	-
Approach	Luklu to Kote by heli, trek to BC via Khare
Basecamp Date	2019-10-12
Summit Date	2019-10-18
Summit Time	1515
Summit Days	6
Total Days	8
Termination Date	2019-10-20
Termination Reason	1
Termination Notes	-
High Point (m)	6783
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Camps	2
Fixed Rope (m)	2000
Total Members	2
Summit Members	2
Member Deaths	0
Total Hired	2
Summit Hired	2
Hired Deaths	0
No Hired	False
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Taken	False
O2 Unknown	False
Other Summits	Climbed Mera Peak
Campsites	BC(12/10,5088m),C1(16/10,5735m),C2(17/10,6100m),Smt(18/10)
Route Notes	BC 12/10 5088m on side moraine of Kangtega Glacier C1 16/10 5735m on snow plateau at the start of ramp C2 17/10 6100m on large snow mushroom in the ramp Smt 18/10 by both members, both Sherpas They had planned to climb via huge icefall on E side, but not possible. Sherpas tried for 2 days to find a route. They prepared 2km of fixed rope through icefall. Sherpa said it’s easy in icefall. But a lot of ice blocks falling down, so members decided too dangerous. Then found possible line on snow ramp on E Face. C1 on snow plateau on 5735m. From C1 over snow ramp. Ramp above seracs, through hanging glacier. After the ramp they gained the wide snowy plateau on S side of Kangtega. C2 at 6100m on big snow mushroom in the ramp shortly before gaining plateau. Sugar snow conditions, very dangerous from C2 to the plateau. They had spent almost all ropes in icefall. Members roped up with Sherpas ascending the ramp, some parts were jumared up a fixed rope. Two steep pitches on last part of S Face. They used ice screws for protection in blue ice. Steepest part maybe 85°, shortly overhanging, but not long. Nice summit day, weather good, sunny. Sherpa by accident dropped a rope on plateau just below summit. Only 3 snow bars and 1 rope left for final summit ridge. Team on summit at 3:15 pm. They started from C2 at 3:30 am. Back to C2 after summit at 8 pm. Descent on same way as ascent. C2 in same location. From C2 all the way to BC. 1979 Japanese KTEG team only to false summit according to Hiro. They had climbed a route in N Face, but not to main summit, but only to false summit (6685m). Other mountaineers from same mountain club say nobody from Japan ever climbed KTEG before. This would make them first Japanese to ascend KTEG. Left BC on 20/10, returned on 22/10 by heli from Khare-Lukla-KTM. Fixed rope: intermittently in ramp and steep part in S Face. Oxygen: not taken, not used Climbing route: East Face, South Ridge, final meters on W Ridge Other peaks: Mera Peak for acclimatization Hired: Sonam Wangdi Sherpa (S) Phura Namgyal Sherpa (S)
Accidents	-
Achievement	Possibly new route; possibly first Japanese on KTEG main summit
Agency	Mountain Experience
Commercial Route	False
Standard Route	False
Primary Route	False
Primary Member	False
Primary Reference	False
Primary ID	-
Checksum	2461469
Year	2019
Summit Success	True
O2 Summary	None
Route (lowercase)	e face-s ridge-w ridge

Members

Field	Value
ID	77245
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	KTEG19301
Member ID	01
Peak ID	KTEG
Year	2019
Season	3
First Name	Hiroyuki
Last Name	Kuraoka
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1961
Calculated Age	58
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Leader
Residence	Abiko, Chiba, Japan
Occupation	Alpine guide
Leader	True
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	False
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6783
Summit Date 1	2019-10-18
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1515
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2435368
Summit Note 1	0
Summit Note 2	0
Summit Note 3	0
Death Route	0
Name (lowercase)	hiroyuki kuraoka
Year of Birth	1961
Year	2019
Age at Expedition	58
Role	Leader

Field	Value
ID	77246
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	KTEG19301
Member ID	02
Peak ID	KTEG
Year	2019
Season	3
First Name	Semba
Last Name	Takayasu
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1964
Calculated Age	54
Citizenship	Japan
Status	Climber
Residence	Tokyo, Japan
Occupation	Self-employed
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	False
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6783
Summit Date 1	2019-10-18
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1515
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2436557
Summit Note 1	0
Summit Note 2	0
Summit Note 3	0
Death Route	0
Name (lowercase)	semba takayasu
Year of Birth	1964
Year	2019
Age at Expedition	55
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	77247
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	KTEG19301
Member ID	03
Peak ID	KTEG
Year	2019
Season	3
First Name	Phura Namgya
Last Name	Sherpa
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1987
Calculated Age	32
Citizenship	Nepal
Status	H-A Worker
Residence	Khumjung, Khumbu
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	True
Sherpa	True
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	False
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6783
Summit Date 1	2019-10-18
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1515
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2444848
Summit Note 1	0
Summit Note 2	0
Summit Note 3	0
Death Route	0
Name (lowercase)	phura namgya sherpa
Year of Birth	1987
Year	2019
Age at Expedition	32
Role	Hired

Field	Value
ID	77248
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	KTEG19301
Member ID	04
Peak ID	KTEG
Year	2019
Season	3
First Name	Sonam Wangdi
Last Name	Sherpa
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1999
Calculated Age	20
Citizenship	Nepal
Status	H-A Worker
Residence	-
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	True
Sherpa	True
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	False
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6783
Summit Date 1	2019-10-18
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1515
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2449030
Summit Note 1	0
Summit Note 2	0
Summit Note 3	0
Death Route	0
Name (lowercase)	sonam wangdi sherpa
Year of Birth	1999
Year	2019
Age at Expedition	20
Role	Hired

4 recorded members.

Name	Sex	Year of Birth	Citizenship	Status	Residence	Occupation
Hiroyuki Kuraoka	M	1961	Japan	Leader	Abiko, Chiba, Japan	Alpine guide	Details Other expeditions
Semba Takayasu	M	1964	Japan	Climber	Tokyo, Japan	Self-employed	Details Other expeditions
Phura Namgya Sherpa	M	1987	Nepal	H-A Worker	Khumjung, Khumbu	-	Details Other expeditions
Sonam Wangdi Sherpa	M	1999	Nepal	H-A Worker	-	-	Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.