Kangtega | 2001 E Pillar

A France expedition to Kangtega in 2001 via E Pillar, led by Christophe Profit. Summit reached on 5th December 2001. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 3948
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KTEG01401
Peak ID KTEG
Year 2001
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Pillar
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Christophe Profit
Sponsor Manutan Kangtega Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 13th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Dudh Kosi->Surke-> E & N to Tangnag & on to Hinku Nup Glacier
Basecamp Date 2001-11-24
Summit Date 2001-12-05
Summit Time 1400
Summit Days 11
Total Days 13
Termination Date 2001-12-07
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6783
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(24/11,5000m),Biv1(02/12,6000m),Biv2(03/12,6300m),Biv3(04/12,6000m),Smt(05/12)
Route Notes BC on Hinku Nup Glacier just NE of junction with Kangtega Glacier Biv on East Pillar Biv on East Pillar Biv on S Face. North Face mountain attempted because too much snow. First acclimatized up Kangtega Glacier on normal route to 6000m, where left small tent for descent. Glacier to Profit's base camp very difficult with many stones (and dangerous when lot of snow). On 26 Nov went around to see North Face and saw too much snow and decided to climb instead East Pillar and returned to BC 26th. 28th to normal route for acclimatization and 29th to BC. 2nd Dec to face. Biv at 6000m on 2nd Dec, 3rd biv at 6300m. Pillar very safe after small gully at 5300m, very dangerous seracs above. 4th arrived on shoulder at 6400m and now most difficult part finished: rock steep (need special rock shoes) and mixed rock and ice in same places. Now decided easy to traverse to normal route. Traversed to South Face to 6000m at biv left of couloir and slept there. 5th to summit by normal route on South Face. East Pillar stopped at shoulder and above dangerous seracs. From summit down to BC same day 8:00 pm in full moon. Last day, 5th very strong wind all day. Had left biv at 6000m at 8:00 am for top, on top at 2:00 pm.
Accidents -
Achievement New route to 6400m
Agency Numbur Himal Treks
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2454880
Year 2001
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e pillar

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Olivier Besson M 1962 France Climber St. Nicolas-de-Veroce, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Christophe Profit M 1961 France Leader Les Houches, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Pierre Andre Rhem M 1970 France Climber Argentiere, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KTEG01401 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 76:410 (2002) -
KTEG01401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200241000/Asia-Nepal-Khumbu-Himal-Kangtega-East-Pillar-First-Ascent-Winter-Ascent - - -