Kangtega | 2000 N Face-NW Ridge
A Russia expedition to Kangtega in 2000 via N Face-NW Ridge, led by Valeri Babanov. Summit reached on 2nd June 2000. 2 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 3593 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | KTEG00101 |
| Peak ID | KTEG |
| Year | 2000 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | N Face-NW Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Russia |
| Leaders | Valeri Babanov |
| Sponsor | Babanov Expedition to Kangtega |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Lukla->Mera Peak |
| Basecamp Date | 2000-04-17 |
| Summit Date | 2000-06-02 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 46 |
| Total Days | 49 |
| Termination Date | 2000-06-05 |
| Termination Reason | 4 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 6600m due to bad weather and avalanche danger |
| High Point (m) | 6600 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 2 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 480 |
| Total Members | 2 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 1 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(17/04,4700m),C1(26/04,5300m),C2(13/05,5700m),xxx(02/06,6600m) |
| Route Notes | BC near Mera Peak BC ABC/C1 at 300m above Hinku Glacier on east side C2 on Hinku Nuptse Glacier High point on NW Ridge. Tried to do alpine-style ascent from high C1 (5300m) for 2 weeks but bad weather prevented him from going above 5900m. But bottom part of face too much rock and snow avalanching in bad weather (meaning snowfall - so shifted tactics and 13 placed high C2 at 5700m and fixed rope from 5800m long flat area above icefall to 6200m. Spent 10 days fixing rope and down to to BC because food finished and sent cook to Lukla to buy cooking gas, kerosene and food. Returned to high C2 (5700m) on 27 May and started up after 4 days bad weather on 31 May, placed one more rope at about 6250m, down in more bad weather to C2; again up 1 June. Wife to high C2, but did no climbing. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Windhorse Trekking |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2454328 |
| Year | 2000 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | n face-nw ridge |
Members
2 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Valeri Babanov | M | 1964 | Russia | Leader | Omsk, Russia | Alpinist | Details Other expeditions |
| Olga Babanova | F | 1964 | Russia | Climber | Omsk, Russia | Couturier | Details Other expeditions |
References
4 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| KTEG00101 | HIGH | - | - | - | 218:77-79 (Jan 2001) | - |
| KTEG00101 | AAJ | Babanov, Valerie | The North Face of Kangtega | - | 75:71-78 (2001) | - |
| KTEG00101 | - | - | http://www.babanov.com | - | - | - |
| KTEG00101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200107100/The-North-Face-of-Kangtega-Perseverence-on-a-Himalayan-Wall | - | - | - |