Korlang Pari Tippa | 2017 W Face-S Ridge from S to Pt 5670m

A UK expedition to Korlang Pari Tippa in 2017 via W Face-S Ridge from S to Pt 5670m, led by Brian Jackson. Summit reached on 18th November 2017. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 9676
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KORL17301
Peak ID KORL
Year 2017
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face-S Ridge from S to Pt 5670m
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Brian Jackson
Sponsor Unclimbed Peak Expedition 2017
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach By Jeep to Lamabagar, trekking via Lamabagar->Lumnan-<Thasing->Lapche->BC
Basecamp Date 2017-11-13
Summit Date 2017-11-18
Summit Time 1020
Summit Days 5
Total Days 6
Termination Date 2017-11-19
Termination Reason 2
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 5670
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 300
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed nearby peak of 5670m
Campsites BC(13/11,4800m),ABC(16/11,5300m),xxxx(18/11,5670m)
Route Notes Note: This team climbed a nearby subpeak of 5670m rather than the true Korlang Pari Tippa peak of 5738m. Arrival interview - 6 Nov 2018 Peak lies on Nepal/Chinese border, whole area is unclimbed. Rolwaling has two valleys, peak lies in northern valley, rarely visited by tourists. After Lapche, two valleys split, team will take northeastern valley and camp at the Kidibu Khola right on the border. Then head up straight to a plateau, “no one has been there, not even yak herders”. BC on plateau. Cirque of rock towers. ABC (5350m) on a glacial lake. They’ll probably take the West Ridge, but not sure yet. Peak is a “big towering rock peak”. Brian Jackson (email) - 10 July 2018 We climbed the West Face and then the South Ridge (Tibetan border) to reach the summit. The rock was extremely friable and loose and we encountered several rock falls as we climbed. We utilised more than 300m of fixed line to assist with safety on the jumar ascent and the abseil descent. We had to climb through one of the rock gendarmes (caving moves) to get onto the ridge, it was then on poor rock to reach the summit. There were deep patches of snow from the snowstorm overnight on our first night at ABC. Team left ABC departure on November 19th and went past BC to Lapche in the same day. First Ascent of Korlang Pari Tippa – Home of the Yeti By Brian Jackson, Expedition Leader In November 2017 I led a team as we attempted a first ascent of the previously unclimbed peak ‘Korlang Pari Tippa’ (5738m) on the Nepal/Tibet border. This would be my 3rd time travelling to the Rolwaling Valley, having twice been to the East-West valley, but will now be traveling into the North-South valley toward Lapche Monastery and Tibet. Arriving in Lamabagar, after 11 very bumpy off-road hours, we pitched our tents and start the routine of wild camping that will hopefully see us reach our Advanced Base Camp in 9 days. From the first day of the trek in we faced tough conditions as it was clear that the low route through the gorge had not been used for at least a year since the original recce. We had to machete our way through bush, make temporary bridges to span some water flows and climb around large rock falls that were caused by the devastating 2015 earthquakes. After Day 1, the route becomes much easier as there is a well-walked local path between the villages of Lumnan and Lapche. We pass the settlements of Thanchhemu and Thasing, not much more than 1 or 2 stone huts with 5 or 6 people and lots of dzos, a hybrid of cow and yak. As we approached Lapche monastery, the valley opens and we could see the unclimbed peak of Chomo Pamari (6109m) and other 6000m peaks on the Tibetan border. The site of our camp indicated we had reached the end of any civilisation and would now be even more isolated as we trekked to the Tibetan border, climbing up to the plateau above the Kidibu Khola and up to our Base Camp at 4800m (28°08’34”N, 86°11’32”E). The next day took us off the beaten track, off the map and into Tibet, setting off up the North-East valley as the valley splits into two at Lapche and both lead into Tibet. The walk to Base Camp was extremely tough gaining 700m straight up the steep unforgiving valley side until we reached our plateau. The plateau was surrounded by a cul de sac of rock towers and peaks, all devoid of snow but we still had no view of our peak, as the plateau curved around to the right and there was a glacial lateral moraine in front of our Camp. We spent two rest days at Base Camp before moving to the Advanced Base Camp (5300m 28°10’24”N, 86°11’28”E) at the foot of our peak, near to a high glacial lake. Here we hit our first real snow and saw the first views of our peak covered with rock towers along a convoluted ridge. Prior to summit day the Sherpas set up the 450m of fixed line with pitons into the unstable rock that will hopefully be our peak. On Saturday 18th November we set off for the summit. The height gain was only 438m, but the ascent was tough on large scree and moving rocks, straight up the West Face. At one point we reached a gendarme (large tower) that we could not go around or over, so found a route directly through it, crawling through in something more akin to caving moves, removing our day sacks to enable us to squeeze through. This allowed us to get to the South Ridge line and the border - we were now walking with one foot in Nepal and the other in Tibet. Around another gendarme and we finally reached the highest point possible on this tower and are stunned at the view. We could see 5 of the 8000m peaks (Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Makalu and Shishapangma) and several 7000m and 6000m peaks, all laid out before us in a complete 360-degree panorama! We recorded several different heights on our GPS devices and satellite tracker so decided to go in the middle with the government stated height of 5738m (28°10’24”N, 86°11’28”E). The climbing team were Brian Jackson (expedition leader), Mark Rowland, Ian Stead, Rob Boulton, Joe O’Connor and Dan Walker, led by climbing Sherpas, Dawa Rita Sherpa and Mindu Sherpa.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Himalaya Expeditions
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2463693
Year 2017
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face-s ridge from s to pt 5670m

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Brian James Jackson M 1967 UK Leader Coedpoeth, Wrexham, Wales Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Rob Boulton M 1967 UK Climber Oswestry, Shropsire, England Civil servant Details Other expeditions
Joe O'Connor M 1962 UK Climber Tarpoley, Cheshire, England Business coach Details Other expeditions
Mark James Rowland M 1969 UK Climber Wrexham, Wales Aircraft engineer Details Other expeditions
Ian Stead M 1967 UK Climber Wrexham, Wales Civil servant Details Other expeditions
Daniel Walker M 1981 UK Climber Whitchurch, Shropshire, England Outdoor instructor Details Other expeditions
Dawa Rita Sherpa M 1972 Nepal H-A Worker Paiya, Jubing-7, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Mindu Sherpa M 1982 Nepal H-A Worker Gudel-6, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KORL17301 - - https://www.expeditionwise.com/index.php/films - - -
KORL17301 AAJ Jackson, Brian Korlang Pari Tippa South, West Face and South Ridge - 92:325 (2018) -
KORL17301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214605/Korlang-Pari-Tippa-South-West-Face-and-South-Ridge - - -