Kanjiroba South | 1979 NW Ridge

A Japan expedition to Kanjiroba South in 1979 via NW Ridge, led by Atsushi Inenaga. Summit reached on 4th November 1979. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2102
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KJRS79301
Peak ID KJRS
Year 1979
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Atsushi Inenaga
Sponsor Fukuoka Alpine Club Himalayan Expedition 1979
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 5th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Jumla->Jagdula Khola (BC)
Basecamp Date 1979-10-13
Summit Date 1979-11-04
Summit Time -
Summit Days 22
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6883
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(13/10,4450m),ABC(15/10,4900m),ABC2(20/10,5000m),C1(21/10,5530m),C2(29/10,6200m),C3(02/11,6580m),Smt(04/11)
Route Notes Okazaki - 26 Nov 79 All members well and returned to KTM. Climbed South Main Peak (North Main Peak not on list and anyway not so distinct). Route = NW Ridge of South Main Peak from Col east of Point 20,600 on Tyson map. Col is very narrow so C2 above it on the ridge. C3 just before North Peak and traversed across in of North Peak's top to South Main Peak. BC was on Jagdula Khola - 1st expedition in this valley ABC on glacier - big icefall above ABC One member (Yada) some frostbite but not serious 3 members to summit on expedition's last chance because weather getting worse and worse with strong cold winds. On day before summit success, on 3 Nov Matsunaga, Takasaki, Yada and Ang Temba made first summit attempt but strong winds and gave up after making only 3 pitches and Yada got finger frostbitten; returned to C3 and made successful attempt next day, Yada included. Approach route to BC very difficult - Jagdula Khola almost impossible gorge to follow (Isherwood followed it 1st time). First time any big party with porters went in there. Villagers didn't know route themselves. Japanese also first to follow Jagdula Khola by left fork (Isherwood took right fork) to their BC site. Okazaki - 22 Aug 79 3 arrived 18th - leader and 2 more came on 1 Sept. Approach route same as Isherwood's up Jagdula Khola. Really want to climb Hanging Glacier Peak; if must climb Kangiroba Main will climb NW Ridge from Col and Main Peak. Leave KTM about 15 Sept by air to Jumla in 2 charters by Otter (must take all food from KTM). 4 Sherpas above BC including sirdar (not decided who). 4 camps above BC with C4 about 6300m (BC at 4000m) on Kanjiroba Main Pk. Oxygen for medical only About 4 weeks BC to summit Okazaki - 4 Sept 79 Ministry says must climb Kanjiroba Main Peak. Will try NW Ridge, but have permission to attempt other route if this one too dangerous. All remaining members arrived 1 Sept and hope to leave about 15 Sept.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446746
Year 1979
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw ridge

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Atushi Ineanaga M 1932 Japan Leader Fukuoka-shi, Fukuoka, Japan Staff member, Medical Association of Fukuoka Details Other expeditions
Takashi Kumamoto M 1953 Japan Climber Fukuma, Fukuoka-shi, Fukuoka, Japan Office clerk Details Other expeditions
Wataru Takasaki M 1952 Japan Climber Munakata, Fukuoka, Japan High school teacher of geography Details Other expeditions
Koji Yada M 1948 Japan Climber Fukuoka-shi, Fukuoka, Japan Office clerk with Japan National Railways Details Other expeditions
Ang Temba Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Sekio Matsunaga M - Japan Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Yuji Okazaki M 1942 Japan Deputy Leader Shima, Fukuoka, Japan High school English teacher Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KJRS79301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 53:631 (1980) -
KJRS79301 MM - - - 71:14 (Jan 1980) -
KJRS79301 IWA - - - 74:156 (1980) -
KJRS79301 IWA - - - 74:49 (1980) -
KJRS79301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198063103/Asia-Nepal-Kanjiroba-South-Main-Peak - - -