Kanjiroba South | 1970 S Spur-SE Ridge
A Japan expedition to Kanjiroba South in 1970 via S Spur-SE Ridge, led by Kazuhisa Jokei. Summit reached on 7th November 1970. 10 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2473 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | KJRS70301 |
| Peak ID | KJRS |
| Year | 1970 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | S Spur-SE Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Kazuhisa Jokei |
| Sponsor | Osaka City University Himalayan Expedition 1970 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 1st |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Nepal |
| Approach | Surkhet->Jumla->Chaudhabise Khola |
| Basecamp Date | 1970-09-25 |
| Summit Date | 1970-11-07 |
| Summit Time | 1530 |
| Summit Days | 43 |
| Total Days | 52 |
| Termination Date | 1970-11-16 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 6883 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 7 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 9 |
| Summit Members | 3 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 3 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(25/09,3810m),C1(03/10,4300m),C2(09/10,4780m),C3(11/10,5360m),C4.ABC(27/10,4000m),C5(02/11,5220m),C6(04/11,5480m),C7(06/11,5800m),Smt(07/11) |
| Route Notes | Sato South of Kanjiroba 2 main peaks - 6882m on 7th Nov 4 members reached summit. Route Bijora Khola where put base camp across Patrasi Himal at 5360m col down to Jagdula Khola which followed south to C4. On Jagdula Khola is about one month which all members and 4 Sherpas reached. C4 established 26 Oct from C4 up ice glacier and icefall towards Kanjiroba South Main Peak South Ridge. C5 5200m 3 Nov; very dangerous icefall just below C5. C7 5800m 6 Nov on South Ridge; final camp most difficult route from C7 to summit: vertical long and steep and snow and very bad and very loose. Campsites difficult. 1st summit attempt 7 Nov: Left C7 at 5:00 am with headlamps; reached summit 3:30 pm and left 4:30 pm and weather became bad (very strong wind and white-out). Decided at 6:30 to bivouac 100m from summit at 6800m. Very cold, very hungry, very thirsty; no frostbite. On 8th Nov continued down to C7 going very slowly because very tired; reached C7 1:30 pm, all 4 together with help of leader and Sherpa Phurkipa. Had planned that leader and Phurkipa and 2 others would be second attack Nov 8, but 2 went up to help late returns and therefore cancelled 2nd assault and returned to base. Members trekking: Okuda, Goto, Sawai Returned to Kathamndu via Surkhet after 16th Dec. Others waiting for STOL to bring to KTM 9th Dec. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2443453 |
| Year | 1970 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | s spur-se ridge |
Members
10 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kazuhisa Jokei | M | - | Japan | Leader | Ibaragi, Osaka, Japan | Employee of Sekisui Chemical Company | Details Other expeditions |
| Ichiryo Sato | M | - | Japan | Deputy Leader | Takamatsu, Kagawa, Japan | Employee of Chori Company | Details Other expeditions |
| Shinichiro Suwa | M | - | Japan | Exp Doctor | Ibaragi, Osaka, Japan | Physician, Osaka City University Hospital | Details Other expeditions |
| Hiroshi Okuda | M | - | Japan | Climber | Takatsuki, Osaka, Japan | Employee of Nippon Paint Co | Details Other expeditions |
| Masayuki Goto | M | 1947 | Japan | Food & Transportation | Kobe, Hyogo, Japan | Students of Faculty of Economics, Osaka City University | Details Other expeditions |
| Hirotada Sawai | M | - | Japan | Equipment Mgr | Kyoto, Japan | Student of Faculty of Economics, Osaka City | Details Other expeditions |
| Munehiro Sawada | M | - | Japan | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| S. L. Amatya | M | - | Nepal | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| P. R. Sharma | M | - | Nepal | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Phurkipa Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | Namche Bazar, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
6 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| KJRS70301 | AAJ | Yoshizawa, Ichiro | - | - | 45:443 (1971) | - |
| KJRS70301 | JAC | Okuda, Hiroshi | Kanjiroba Himal, 1970 - The First Ascent of the Main Peak | - | 66:32-34 (1971) | - |
| KJRS70301 | MM | - | - | - | 14:5 (Mar 1971) | - |
| KJRS70301 | JAC | Okuda, Hiroshi | Kanjiroba Himal, 1970 - The First Ascent of the Main Peak | - | 66:167-178 (1971) | - |
| KJRS70301 | - | Osaka City University Alpine Club | The First Ascent of Kanjiroba Himal in 1970 | Osaka City University Alpine Club, Osaka, Japan | - | jA244 |
| KJRS70301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197144301/Asia-Nepal-Kanjiroba | - | - | - |