Kimshung | 2024 S Ridge from E

A Italy expedition to Kimshung in 2024 via S Ridge from E, led by Francois Cazzanelli. Summit reached on 27th October 2024. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 11507
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KIMS24301
Peak ID KIMS
Year 2024
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Ridge from E
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Francois Cazzanelli
Sponsor Italian Kimshung Expedition 2024
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Langtang Valley
Basecamp Date 2024-10-13
Summit Date 2024-10-27
Summit Time -
Summit Days 14
Total Days 23
Termination Date 2024-11-05
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6550m due to bad weather
High Point (m) 6550
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 8
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Summited Kimshung Shar (6308m)
Campsites BC(13/10,4100m),C1(16/14,5400m),xxx(10/27,6550m)
Route Notes BC 13/10 4100m C1 16/10 5400m at the beginning of the Kimshung glacier. C2 17/10 5800m at the end of the Kimshung Glacier. HPt 27/10 by François Cazzanelli, Giuseppe Vidoni, Francesco Ratti, Jerome Perruquet at 2 pm for KIMS S Ridge. Smt 27/10 by Emrik Favre, Stefano Stradelli, Roger Bovard circa 2 pm for Kimshung Shar. Climb abandoned on KIMS on 27 October 2024 due weather conditions. Left BC on 5 November Oxygen: Not taken, not used Records: 1st ascent of "Kimshung Shar" ? Routes: Kimshung, E couloir (same as Germans in 2016) then S Ridge up, down by the same line. Kimshung Shar, SSE Ridge up, a couloir of the East Face down. Members: Roger Bovard François Cazzanelli Emrik Favre Jerome Perruquet Francesco Ratti Stefano Stradelli, (Francois' cousin, his 1st expedition in Himalaya) Giuseppe Vidoni Damiano Levati, photographer and drone pilot (Even not meant to climb, he went twice to C1). • Acclimatization 14 October: team made a gear deposit at 5400m future C1. 16 October: team made 1 night of acclimatization at C1, then at 5800m on the day after. Around the 20th of October, the team made a third and last tour of acclimatization, just making a new deposit at C1 without sleeping there. After some bad weather period, the team chose to split for two objectives: - Francois Cazzanelli, Giuseppe Vidoni, Francesco Ratti and Jerome Perruquet would attempt the highest north peak (actual KIMS). - Emrik Favre, Stefano Stradelli, Roger Bovard, would attempt the most southern peaks of Kimshung, christened "Kimshung Sar" on some maps (circa 6320-30m). • Kimshung Shar ascent (1st?): 26 October: from BC to C1. 27 October: start at 2 am. The ridge ascended was rather technical, comparable (yet slightly harder) to a Peuterey Ridge without the South Ridge of La Noire. Estimated grades: 3 in ice; French 4+ on poor rock. At circa 2 pm, the trio reached the "rocky summit" (circa 6320-30m); missing were a 100m in length and 3m in height to reach the very highest cornice of the dangerously-corniced summit ridge. Starting the descent first via the same route, the trio put 5,6 abseils on the upper part of the ridge (belays already difficult to install), with a gendarme to bypass. After a while, considering they wouldn’t retrace their steps for the whole length of the ridge, the trio plunged onto the latter’s east side via a couloir to shorten its descent. 9 abseils would be necessary in that couloir, with again difficulties to install correct belays, even more in the dark. Trio eventually touched the glacier around 10 pm, then C1 at 11 pm. 28 October: C1 to BC. • Kimshung attempt: 26 October: from BC to C1. 27 October: start at 2 am. Team first had to break the trail in deep snow and cold conditions (north wind would blow all day at circa 40-50km/h in average) for most of the glacier length until joining the attack of the route (same as the German attempt of 2016), reaching the latter at dawn at circa 6000m. From then, the team climbed the couloir (in snow, slope to 60-70°, not too difficult) in 5 hours until reaching the col on the ridge (high point of Germans in 2016). Before the col, they found a piton, likely left by the Germans. From then, despite windier conditions, the team climbed two mixed pitches, reaching about 6580m at 2 pm. The remaining terrain above looked not that difficult, but the wind made the rope horizontal (!), so the quartet had to abandon, in tears. The two abseils would prove challenging, with the wind pushing the ropes on the west side of the mountain. If the first abseil got already difficult, the second one got blocked: after pulling on it numerous times, eventually managed to get the rope back, yet the latter was now partially torn. The descent went smoothly after that down the same couloir ascended, necessitating about 12 abseils mostly on abalakovs (previously prepared – above 3 belays on pitons, remnant on abalakovs). Cold wind still blowing but not anymore annoying. After 19h of climbing, the quartet reached BC at 8 pm. No one got frostbites. The altitude of Kimshung (6781m) on the maps looks incorrect. From where they stopped, it feels like 6580m was like the same height than the secondary summit. Believe it is more than 6800m? The south col down to the summit was measured with the mobile phone’s altimeter at 6500m (caution: Garmin's watch always lacks of precision when taking a measurement very near steep areas). • Rescue on Langtang (1st of November) After three days of rest, as both teams were ready for new attempts, the events got bad on nearby Langtang Lirung’s east flank. The team first tried to seek for clues of the Czechs with the drone, spotting a sleeping bag located afoot of the west face of Kimshung, without any tracks around, then the clouds came… One team (François, Roger, Jerome, Giuseppe) went by foot on the glacier towards west face of Kimshung to check that sleeping bag, but eventually found nothing then fog came ("Marek could be anywhere"). Meanwhile, Stefano and Francesco went up to the kind of ABC’s tent of the Czechs, where they found two friends of Marek’s in it. Here they were told than Marek was in troubles and that Ondrej was dead. Around 11 am, a helicopter reached the base camp for starting aerial research: Emrik jumped into the helicopter. The conditions above the clouds didn’t allow the pilot to get close enough from the wall. Next the helicopter went down to the clouds, closer to the wall, but they could spot nothing. All the teams (Italians, David Goettler and Nicolas Hojak, Czechs) were back down to Kyangin Gompa on that evening to organize next day's rescue. Italians told one of the Czechs to go back to their CBA to welcome Marek, just in case... and the Czech met Marek on the trail, back from the mountain. The rescue was over. Back to the village, Marek told to the Italians to have heard the helicopter’s sound but since he was in the clouds… The expedition was over.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Seven Summit Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2465920
Year 2024
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s ridge from e

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Francois (Franz) Cazzanelli M 1990 Italy Leader Valtournenche, Aosta, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Roger Bovard M 1995 Italy Climber Valgrisenche, Aosta, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Emrik Favre M 1988 Italy Climber Ayas, Aosta, Italy Ski instructor & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Damiano Levati M 1977 Italy Camerman Borsofranco d'Ivrea, Turin, Italy Photographer Details Other expeditions
Jerome Perruquet M 1997 Italy Climber Valtournenche, Aosta, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Francesco Ratti M 1980 Italy Climber Valtournenche, Aosta, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Stefano Stradelli M 1993 Italy Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Giuseppe Vidoni M 1994 Italy Climber - - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KIMS24301 - - https://explorersweb.com/mixed-results-for-strong-italian-team-on-kimshung/ - - -
KIMS24301 - - https://aostasera.it/notizie/montagna/anche-cinque-alpinisti-valdostani-nella-spedizione-che-tentera-la-prima-sul-kimshung/?fbclid=IwY2xjawGYN_pleHRuA2FlbQIxMQABHUQ19mnC3eOGisyvJ2okPY2IHJdcCXwWfe6dtprNJZdgNEjiA - - -