Khatang | 1988 NE Ridge

A UK expedition to Khatang in 1988 via NE Ridge, led by Mike Davison. Summit reached on 28th October 1988. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 862
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KHAT88301
Peak ID KHAT
Year 1988
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Mike Davison
Sponsor Himalayan Venture 1988 - British Expedition to Khatang
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Tried N of Thanga a trail that does not exist->Lumding Kharke
Basecamp Date 1988-10-21
Summit Date 1988-10-28
Summit Time -
Summit Days 7
Total Days 10
Termination Date 1988-10-31
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6100m due to bad snow conditions and lack of time
High Point (m) 6100
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites TempBC(21/10,4200m),BC(23/10,4100m),ABC(24/10,4800m),Biv(25/10,5700m),xxx(28/10,6100m)
Route Notes BC northwest of Lumding Kharka ABC Tsho Og lake Biv in icefall. Arrived BC 8 days late because porters deserted them. Sirdar got onto track that didn't exist and had find the way through rhododendron forest. After BC did a recce of SE Ridge and found did not have time and resources for ridge with 300m rock step which was too formidable for present expedition, so turned attention to NE Ridge. 25th Oct recce icefall to 5000m. 27th Oct 4 left ABC and camped at 5450m, 28th on to col at foot of ridge at 5720m and started to find Swiss ropes and went on up 45-50 degrees steep ridge mostly snow, at first quite good snow but became unconsolidated sugar. Got to 6100m at 2:30 pm in slow going and no site for camping and slight chance of completing ridge to top next day, so down to ABC. Another team went through icefall on 29th intending to put camp at col, which they reached on 30th and hacked out ice platform for a tent and spent night there. 31st on up ridge but encountered same problem when snow powdered and no protection possible; got to just little below 6100m and gave up. Climbing finished and all down to BC by 2 Nov. Very difficult ridge for alpine-style ascent.
Accidents None except illness of Coulthard before BC
Achievement 1st British attempt
Agency Sherpa Cooperative Trekking (SCT)
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450036
Year 1988
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jon Beattie M 1959 UK Climber Forres, Moray, Scotland Sergeant Details Other expeditions
Richard Berry M 1965 UK Climber Forres, Moray, Scotland RAF (corporal) Details Other expeditions
Mike Davison M 1948 UK Leader Holywell, Cambridge, England RAF officer Details Other expeditions
Paul Horth M 1952 UK Climber Forres, Moray, Scotland Technician Details Other expeditions
Paul Jiggins M 1965 UK Climber Aylesbury, Buckingham, England RAF junior technician, Halton Details Other expeditions
Mark Richford M 1960 UK Climber Balmullo, Fife, Scotland RAF corporal, aircraft technician Details Other expeditions
Raymond Shafren M 1964 UK Climber Burghead, Moray, Scotland RAF corporal, aircraft technician Details Other expeditions
Phillip Charles Smithson M 1954 UK Deputy Leader Shifnal, Shropshire, England RAF flight Lt. Details Other expeditions
Gordon Turner M 1964 UK Climber Edinburgh, Scotland RAF flying officer (at RAF Lossiemouth) Details Other expeditions
James Stewart Coulthard M 1951 UK Climber Alrighton, W Midlands, England Physical training instructor Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KHAT88301 AAJ Davidson, Michael - - 63:209 (1989) -
KHAT88301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198920902/Asia-Nepal-Khatang-Attempt - - -