Khatang | 1982 NE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Khatang in 1982 via NE Ridge, led by Masaru Otani. Summit reached on 30th October 1982. 16 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2058
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KHAT82301
Peak ID KHAT
Year 1982
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Masaru Otani
Sponsor Hokkaido Mt. Khatang Expedition 1982
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st-3rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Kirantichap->BC
Basecamp Date 1982-10-08
Summit Date 1982-10-30
Summit Time 0907
Summit Days 22
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6790
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 14
Summit Members 9
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(08/10,4780m),C1(12/10,6370m),C2(18/10,5730m),C3(26/10,6310m),Smt(30-31/10)
Route Notes Sharma, Tourism - 9 Nov 82 Khatang NE Ridge Khatang climbed by NMA in 1975 summit 30 Oct Dorje Sherpa, 22 T. Kawamura Y. Kitayama at 9:07 hours without oxygen. Very windy at top. Started 6:00 am from C3 6310m. left top 9:37 am, arrived at C1 13:00 hours. 31 Oct - K. Kimura H. Sato C. Watanabe 31 Oct - K. Koyama S. Sawada T. Ono A. Kamegai Otani - 8 Nov 82 BC 8 Oct 4780m at southeast end of Tsho Og lake Route = NE Ridge Climbed quickly. 21 and 22 Oct much snow. 4 days climbing stopped. No avalanches. Route was north of avalanche areas and very safe to ridge and on on ridge. Ridge very steep knife ridge C2 to C3, but deep snow made climbing very difficult, 45-degree steepness. C3 to top 25-30 degrees. No accidents, but Miss Kinoshita left because altitude sickness. No frostbite. 30 Oct left 6:00 am from C3 and top 9:07 am. Good weather, but strong wind and very cold (-25 degrees), stayed 30 mins: raised Japanese and Nepalese flags and took photos, returned C1 at 1:30 pm. 31 Oct: 1st party summiters from C3 6:00 am; top at 10:00 am (five days, so took many pix), returned to C1 2:15 pm. 31 Oct 2nd summiters from C2 8:15 am, C3 8:00 am, top at 11:45 am; returned C2 3:30 pm. No ladies on top. Ridge very difficult. Mrs Yasuda little sick and Miss Kinoshita left very happy. Mt Khatang last year opened new mountain and first summit in world. "This record very happy." Following this mountain success Nepalese cooperateed very well. Hokkaido Workers Alpine Federation have another expedition to Nepal (mountain not decided) and Otani may be come again. 4 now in KTM - all 9 others arrive tomorrow (11 already gone home) 3 Sherpas including sirdar Tendi above BC. Kamegai & Sato - 18 Sept 82 8 members now in KTM, arrived 15 and 17 Sept and leave 21 Sept; other 6 arrive 1 Oct and join first 8 at BC via flight to Lukla. BC at point 4800m northeast of Khatang on Schneider map near Lake Tsho Og. Route = South NE Ridge - very difficult knife ridge Last year 2 members on recce Go by road to Kirantichap, arrive in BC 8 Oct 3 camps above BC, C3 at 6400m Icefall between BC and C1; C1 at 5600m C2 not sure altitude of C2. Hokkaido Mountain Khatang Expedition 1982 From Hokkaido Workers Alpine Federation 3 Sherpas above BC Summit end Oct 4 medical oxygen only
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447840
Year 1982
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

16 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Yoshiaki Ito M 1951 Japan Climber Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Hospital office worker Details Other expeditions
Akihisa Kamegai M 1957 Japan Exp Doctor Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Tatsumi Kawamura M 1949 Japan Climber Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Works in his family's Co. which produces parts for medical equipment Details Other expeditions
Koji Kimura M 1952 Japan Climber Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Engineer for agricultural machinery company Details Other expeditions
Sachiko Kinoshita F 1943 Japan Climber Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Social worker Details Other expeditions
Yoshimi Kitayama M 1949 Japan Climber Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Printing technician Details Other expeditions
Kenji Koyama M 1947 Japan Deputy Leader Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Bank clerk Details Other expeditions
Mutsuo Ono M 1955 Japan Climber Date, Hokkaido, Japan Sales engineer of medical equipment Details Other expeditions
Takehiko Ono M 1953 Japan Climber Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Public official (forestry department, Hokkaido prefecture) Details Other expeditions
Masaru Otani M 1950 Japan Leader Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Public official (technician, Hokkaido prefecture) Details Other expeditions
Hideki Sato M 1948 Japan Climber Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Staff member, national railways Details Other expeditions
Shigenori Sawada M 1952 Japan Climber Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Office worker (in import-export company) Details Other expeditions
Chiharu Watanabe M 1955 Japan Climber Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Agricultural-machinery engineer Details Other expeditions
Sachiko Yasuda F 1950 Japan Climber Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Bank clerk Details Other expeditions
Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Tendi Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KHAT82301 AAJ Otani, Masaru - - 57:233 (1983) -
KHAT82301 MM - - - 89:12 (Jan 1983) -
KHAT82301 IWA - - - 95:197 (1983) -
KHAT82301 IWA - - - 95:39 (1983) -
KHAT82301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198323302/Asia-Nepal-Khatang-Rolwaling-Himal - - -